Sewer Line and Drain Problems in New Hanover County Homes

Hello, neighbors – I’m Justin Wilder, owner of Wild Water Plumbing here in Wilmington, NC. Over the years, I’ve seen almost every sewer line and drain problem imaginable in homes across New Hanover County.

I’d like to share what I’ve learned about these issues – from the aging pipes in our historic neighborhoods to the clogs and leaks that can surprise even owners of newer homes.

My goal is to explain common sewer and drain problems, why they matter for your home’s health, and how we find and fix them.

I’ll also point out which areas around Wilmington often see these troubles, and offer prevention tips and when it’s time to call in a pro.

Let’s dive in (not literally, I hope!) and talk about keeping your home’s drains flowing safely.

Sewer Line Challenges in Older Homes

New Hanover County has many older homes – some dating back to the early 20th century – especially in areas like Forest Hills and Carolina Place.

These charming older houses often still rely on original sewer materials that are well past their prime.

In my experience, the three troublemakers I encounter most in older sewer laterals (the underground pipe from house to street) are Orangeburg pipe, clay tile, and cast iron:

Orangeburg Pipe (Fiber Tar Pipe):

This pipe was used from the 1940s through the 1960s as a cheap sewer line material. It’s basically compressed wood pulp infused with coal tar – essentially a cardboard-like tube. Orangeburg initially did its job, but it lacks strength and degrades rapidly. The useful life of Orangeburg is only about 50 years, even in ideal soil conditions. In reality, I’ve seen Orangeburg collapse in far less time due to our wet soil and tree roots. Once it starts to break down, it warps from round to oval and can totally collapse, blocking the sewer flow. A collapsed Orangeburg line will stop waste from leaving your home, causing everything you flush to back up. The results aren’t pretty – sewage can come up through drains or even onto your yard. This creates a serious health hazard from bacteria-laden water and can cost thousands in cleanup and repairs. (Most building codes have banned Orangeburg now, but plenty remains underground in Wilmington’s mid-century neighborhoods.)

Clay Tile Pipes:

Many older homes (pre-1970s) have sewer laterals made of vitrified clay sections. Clay pipes are pretty durable against normal soil pressure and can actually last a long time – sometimes up to a century in perfect conditions. However, the weak point of clay is the joints between each short section. The joints were usually not tightly sealed by modern standards, so over decades they allow water to leak out and tree roots to sneak in.

Clay is also brittle – it doesn’t flex, so any ground settling can crack the pipe. In New Hanover’s mix of sandy and clay soils, I often find hairline cracks or partial collapses in clay lines under older yards. A cracked clay pipe will leak sewage into the surrounding soil, which can attract pests and even lead to sinkholes or foundation settling if the ground erodes.

Even before total failure, cracks let roots intrude. I’ve opened up clay pipes to find a spiderweb of roots inside, catching toilet paper and waste until a huge clog forms. Homeowners might notice slow drains or a faint sewage smell outside long before a clay line finally gives out. Even if unbroken, clay laterals rarely escape root invasion – tiny root filaments seek out moisture and force their way in. Over time those roots widen the cracks and can break the pipe apart from the inside. It’s a gradual process, but it’s relentless. Ignoring it leads to the same outcome as Orangeburg collapse: a sewer line that can’t do its job.

Cast Iron Pipes:

From about the 1900s through the 1970s, cast iron was the gold standard for drain, waste, and vent piping – and many older Wilmington homes still have their original cast iron sewer lines. Cast iron is strong but prone to corrosion. On average, a buried cast iron sewer pipe lasts anywhere from 50 to 75 years, though in ideal conditions it might reach 80–100 years. Here by the coast, with our high water table and occasionally acidic soil, I find that cast iron often starts corroding significantly by the 40–60 year mark.

The inside of the pipe rusts and develops scale (thick rough buildup), constricting the flow. Eventually the rust can eat all the way through, causing leaks.

Corroded cast iron leaks sewage under your lawn or slab, and also creates rough surfaces that snag debris and accelerate clogs. One big red flag is recurring clogs or slow drains throughout the house – as the pipe diameter is choked off by rust, even normal waste can’t pass. Cast iron is also heavy, so if the soil underneath erodes or shifts, sections of pipe can settle and create “bellies” (low spots) or cracks at the joints.

The risk with a leaking cast iron line (especially one running under a slab foundation) is that it can wash away supporting soil. I’ve seen cases where a long-undetected cast iron leak caused voids under a home – eventually leading to cracks in the foundation and major repair bills. Another concern specific to very old cast iron is it may contain lead at the joints (old caulked joints used molten lead). As the pipe corrodes, that lead can leach out. In a worst-case scenario, deteriorating cast iron could even start allowing sewage to mix with a home’s water supply or well water (in rural areas), which is clearly a serious health hazard. Don’t panic – that’s rare, but it’s one reason experts say to replace cast iron once it’s near the end of its life. In fact, exposure to raw sewage from any leaking pipe can cause illness – people in homes with sewage leaks have reported headaches, nausea, even diarrhea from sewer gas and bacteria exposure.

How do these older pipes fail?

Often it’s a combination of age and environment. Orangeburg softens and collapses; clay cracks and gets root-bound; cast iron corrodes and leaks.

Tree root intrusion is a big theme in older lines – we have lots of mature trees in Wilmington’s older neighborhoods (live oaks, pines, etc.), and roots naturally seek out the warm water vapor that leaks from aging sewer joints.

In fact, studies show that tree roots cause over 50% of sewer blockages across the country. Once roots invade an old pipe, the blockage and damage will only worsen with time. I often tell homeowners with clay or Orangeburg laterals: it’s not if roots will get in, it’s when.

The warning signs of trouble in these old lines include multiple fixtures draining slowly at once, gurgling noises in pipes, or foul odors coming from drains or the yard. You might also notice a section of lawn that’s constantly damp or unusually green (fertilized by leaking sewage), or even a sunken area in the yard above the pipe path. Any of these signs should prompt an inspection (more on detection methods later). If an Orangeburg sewer lateral hits 40–50 years old, it’s essentially on borrowed time – I often recommend replacing it proactively, because waiting until it fully collapses means you’ll be dealing with an emergency backup. Clay and cast iron give a bit more warning (with slow cracks or recurrent clogs), but by 50+ years old they deserve a close look. In Forest Hills, for example, many homes built in the 1950s still have their original laterals – I regularly encounter Orangeburg there that has virtually disintegrated. In Carolina Place and Ardmore, the 1920s-era houses had clay pipes; by now a lot have been replaced with PVC, but those that haven’t are often brittle or leaking in spots. Each of these older materials can be replaced or rehabilitated (I’ll cover solutions later), but knowing what you have is the first step.

Sewer and Drain Issues in Newer Homes

If you live in a newer home (say built in the late 1980s through today), you might think you’re off the hook for sewer problems. It’s true that modern PVC (plastic) sewer pipes have huge advantages – they don’t rot or rust, they have fewer joints (longer sections), and roots generally can’t penetrate unbroken PVC. However, “new” doesn’t equal “problem-free.” I get plenty of calls in subdivisions from Ogden to Pine Valley where relatively young sewer lines are having issues. Here are some common sewer and drain problems in newer construction:

Grease and “Flushables” Causing Clogs:

One thing that never changes is human behavior – even in brand new PVC pipes, pouring fats and oils down the kitchen sink will cause trouble. Hot grease cools and solidifies inside the pipes, gradually building up layers of gunk. Over time, this can constrict a 4-inch pipe down to a trickle. I’ve pulled out kitchen sink traps that were almost completely closed up by solid grease. In community sewer systems, these fats, oils, and grease accumulate into “fatbergs,” which are as nasty as they sound – huge greasy blockages. In fact, the EPA found that grease from kitchens is the number one cause of sewer blockages, responsible for about 47% of reported sewage overflows in the U.S.. That’s nearly half of all sewer clogs!

In newer homes, the pipes may be slick PVC, but if you dump grease or flush inappropriate items, you can still get a clog or even contribute to a neighborhood sewer overflow. “Flushable” wipes are a big culprit – despite the label, those wipes do not break down quickly in pipes. They often snag and create a net that catches other debris. In low-slope sections of pipe, I’ve seen wipes entwine with grease to form a rock-hard blockage. The result of these clogs can be sewage backing up into your sinks, tubs, or toilets. Imagine flushing your toilet and instead of going down, everything comes up into your shower – that can happen if your main line is blocked. The best case is needing a plumber with a sewer snake or hydro-jet to clear it; the worst case is a nasty mess of sewer water in your home.

And beyond property damage, remember: sewage carries bacteria and pathogens that can make you very sick if you’re exposed (think gastrointestinal illnesses, skin infections, etc.). So even in a new house, it’s critical to mind what goes down the drain – no grease, no wipes, no hygiene products, paper towels, or other non-solubles.

Settling and “Bellies” in PVC Lines:

Newer subdivisions in Midtown and around the county are often built quickly, and sometimes backfilled soil isn’t compacted perfectly. Over a few years, the ground can settle unevenly. PVC pipes, while flexible to a degree, can bend or slope incorrectly if the ground sinks underneath. One common issue I find in fairly new homes is a “belly” in the sewer line – a low spot where the pipe has sagged. This often happens if a section of soil settles under the pipe or if the pipe wasn’t supported correctly when installed. The belly creates a negative slope (water doesn’t flow uphill, so it pools there). As sewage hits the belly, the water can slowly seep, but solids stop and collect in the dip.

Over time, that sag becomes a perfect spot for chronic clogs – waste and paper build up in the belly, bacteria grows, and you start getting nasty backups. If not addressed, that low spot can also strain the pipe – the weight of water sitting in it 24/7 may eventually crack the pipe, even PVC. According to plumbing standards, sewer lines should slope downward at about 1/4 inch per foot for proper gravity flow.

I’ve seen lines where poor installation or settling left a section effectively back-pitched, meaning it runs the wrong way or is level. Improper slope is a serious issue – waste will not evacuate properly. The problem might not show up immediately after construction, but a couple years in, the homeowner starts noticing slow drains and frequent clogs. In one new development in Ogden, I found several homes where the lateral pipe had a significant belly near the street because the soil over the trench compressed after the first few heavy rains. The only real fix was to excavate and re-lay those sections to the correct grade. If you suspect a belly or bad slope (recurrent clogs in a newer home, or if a camera inspection shows standing water in the line), don’t ignore it. That section could eventually collapse from the stress or become a constant source of backups. The solution is a proper re-installation with solid support under the pipe (we use gravel bedding and sometimes braces to prevent re-settlement).

Poor Venting or Drain Design:

Modern plumbing code is strict about venting every fixture and ensuring air can flow so drains work efficiently. However, I’ve seen cases in fast-built new homes where venting is marginal – maybe they used one vent pipe for two bathrooms and the layout isn’t ideal, or an island sink with an auto-vent that fails. The result can be gurgling drains and sewer gas odors in a relatively new house. A poorly vented drain can siphon the water out of traps (the U-shaped bends under sinks/toilets), which then allows sewer gases to come back into the home. Sewer gas isn’t just stinky; it can be dangerous. The gas mixture from sewers contains methane and hydrogen sulfide among other things. Hydrogen sulfide (that rotten-egg smell) is toxic at high concentrations and even explosive in the right mix with air.

Now, a slow gurgling sink isn’t likely to fill your house with explosive gas, but even low-level exposure to sewer gas can cause headaches or dizziness, and it means you’re breathing bacteria and foul odors. In newer homes, vent issues sometimes show up as toilets that flush poorly (because of air pressure problems) or a persistent sewer odor in a bathroom. One newer house in the Wrightsboro area had a vent line that was mistakenly capped off inside a wall – the owners noticed the first week that every time they ran a lot of water, they’d smell sewage.

We tracked it down, opened the wall, and corrected the vent pipe – problem solved. So yes, new homes can have “built-in” sewer issues if something wasn’t done to code. The fixes range from adding venting to installing one-way air admittance valves, but diagnosing the cause is step one. The key point is, if you ever smell sewer odors indoors, don’t assume your house is too new for that – get it checked. It could be a simple dry trap or a hidden construction defect.

Stormwater Infiltration in Low-Lying Areas:

Most newer developments have separate storm drain systems, but I’ll mention this here because even new sewer lines can suffer from water intrusion. Areas like parts of Ogden and Castle Hayne have high water tables and can experience periodic flooding. If a PVC sewer line has even a tiny defect or loose joint, groundwater can infiltrate during heavy rains. Conversely, if yard drains or gutter downspouts are improperly tied into the sanitary sewer (which sometimes DIYers or uninformed contractors do illegally), a heavy rain can send a flood of water into the sewer line.

New Hanover County’s utility, CFPUA, notes that when storm or ground water overloads the sewer system (a problem known as inflow and infiltration), it can lead to sanitary sewer overflows (SSOs) and even pipe failures. Basically, extra water forces the sewer pipes to carry more than they’re designed for – this can cause sewage to back up out of manholes or into homes, and put stress on the pipes and pumps.

Even a new PVC line can separate at a joint if the ground shifts during an overloaded, saturated condition. In neighborhoods with higher elevation, this isn’t a big concern, but in low zones (near marshes or creek basins) I’ve seen new homes where after a hurricane, sand and silt got into the sewer line through a dislodged joint – likely due to floodwaters. The homeowner only knew because months later the line backed up; when we ran a camera, we found a bunch of sand that shouldn’t be there.

If you’re in a flood-prone area, it’s worth asking a plumber about measures like a backwater valve on your main line. FEMA specifically recommends installing backflow prevention to stop flood-induced sewer backups – a backflow valve prevents sewage from flowing back into your home when the main sewer is over capacity. I’ll talk more about prevention, but keep in mind newer doesn’t mean invincible, especially against Mother Nature.

In summary, newer homes avoid many of the material failures of old pipes, but they introduce their own set of issues: user-related clogs (grease, wipes), improper installation (sags or venting problems), and the occasional environmental stress (floodwater or settling) impacting the lines. The damage and health risks are similar to those in older homes when things go wrong: a clog or backup can flood your home with sewage (ruining drywall, floors, and creating a biohazard), and any leak can grow mold or introduce pathogens. Don’t fall into the trap of thinking, “my house is new, so slow drains must be normal” – new plumbing should work smoothly; any persistent issue is worth investigating early.

Why These Sewer Problems Matter: Damage and Health Risks

I’ve hinted at the consequences of these issues, but let’s spell them out clearly.

Ignoring sewer and drain problems – whether in an old house or new – can lead to far worse damage and hazards:

Sewage Backups and Indoor Flooding:

This is the nightmare scenario for any homeowner. A blockage or collapsed line means wastewater has nowhere to go but back toward your house. It might start with a gurgling toilet or a shower that drains slowly, but if unaddressed, you could come home to a basement (if you have one) or first floor flooded with foul water. In cities like Wilmington that mostly don’t have basements, an overflow often first appears in the lowest shower or tub, or even seeping from under a toilet.

Raw sewage can destroy flooring, drywall, furniture – and it carries harmful bacteria like E. coli, viruses, and parasites. The EPA warns that sewer overflows can contaminate indoor spaces and pose significant health risks. Even a small backup that you mop up can leave behind pathogens. And if porous materials (carpet, wood, insulation) got wet, they can harbor bacteria and mold spores. Professional cleanup is almost always needed for sewage incidents. According to EPA guidelines, if sewage water has soaked into walls or flooring, those materials often need removal, and special disinfectants are required. It’s not something you want to deal with if you can prevent it by fixing a slow drain before it turns into a backup.

Mold Growth and Indoor Air Quality:

Any time water (especially dirty water) leaks into hidden spaces and isn’t dried within 24-48 hours, mold can begin to grow. I’ve seen this in crawl spaces where a sewer pipe had a slow leak for weeks – the wet wood and insulation became a breeding ground for mold. Once mold takes hold, it releases spores that can cause respiratory issues, allergies, and other health problems. The presence of sewage makes it worse, because it’s not just ordinary mold – you get bacteria and possibly fungal growth combined. Homeowners sometimes don’t realize there’s a sewer leak under a house until a musty odor or health symptom appears. By then, the cleanup is much bigger. Mold remediation is costly and often requires tearing out materials.

The key is addressing leaks and moisture quickly. If you ever have a sewage spill (even a one-time backup), it’s critical to dry everything out and disinfect immediately. Don’t shrug off a minor backup in a tub – if the walls or cabinets got damp, you have to prevent mold. In the humid climate of coastal NC, mold can spread fast.

Foundation and Structural Damage:

This one surprises people – how can a plumbing issue affect my foundation? Think of a sewer line leak as a slow underground river eroding soil from under your house. As mentioned earlier, a leaking sewer pipe can wash away supporting dirt. I’ve seen sections of concrete slab that cracked because the earth beneath them was undermined by long-term sewer leaks. One homeowner in Pine Valley noticed exterior brick cracks and a slight dip in the floor; it turned out a cast iron sewer line had been leaking for years, softening the soil under the footing. When the pipe finally gave way, it created a void that led part of the foundation to settle. Structural repairs easily climbed into five figures.

Sewer problems can also cause ground subsidence or sinkholes in the yard – I’ve stood in front yards in the Castle Hayne area where, when the old clay sewer finally collapsed, the lawn above it caved in too. If that happens under a driveway or near the house, it’s dangerous. The CFPUA notes that when sewers are overloaded or leaking, it can result in ground subsidence and even sinkholes. If you ever see a depression forming in your yard along the path of your sewer line, that’s a red flag of a leak underground. Address it ASAP, because a growing void can threaten patios, driveways, or foundations nearby.

Contaminated Soil and Water:

A broken sewer pipe doesn’t just affect the homeowner – it can be an environmental hazard. Sewage leaking into the ground can contaminate groundwater (especially concerning if there are wells nearby or if it reaches streams and creeks). Here in New Hanover County, where we value our waterways and have a high water table, a leaking sewer can quickly introduce nutrients and pathogens into the ecosystem.

You might notice extra-lush vegetation or algal growth where the leak surfaces. Plus, leaking sewage in your yard is a magnet for pests: rodents and insects are drawn to the organic matter. I’ve had to remediate areas where roaches were breeding around a broken sewer line break – not a pleasant thought. The public health risk is real too: if a neighbor’s dog or a child plays in an area that’s contaminated, they could get sick. This is why sewer leaks and overflows are taken seriously by authorities. Untreated sewage is full of microbes that can cause dysentery, hepatitis, skin infections, etc. The EPA explicitly states that sewage overflows can threaten public health and water quality. So by fixing your sewer issues promptly, you’re not only protecting your home, you’re being a good neighbor and citizen by preventing pollution.

Sewer Gas Hazards:

We touched on this under venting, but it’s worth reiterating: letting sewer gas seep into your home is dangerous. Besides the odor and immediate discomfort, sewer gas contains methane and hydrogen sulfide. Methane can displace oxygen in a confined space, leading to asphyxiation risk, and it’s highly flammable. Hydrogen sulfide in high concentrations is toxic – it can cause loss of consciousness or worse.

Now, in most home scenarios you’d smell it long before it’s at truly lethal levels (the “rotten egg” smell warns you), but here’s a scary fact: at very high levels, hydrogen sulfide can deaden your sense of smell, meaning the warning odor disappears. This typically isn’t a concern unless you have a major, continuous sewer gas intrusion in a closed space. But even at low levels, chronic exposure to sewer gas can cause headaches, irritate your eyes and respiratory system, and generally make you feel unwell. I had a customer who ignored a sewer odor in their crawlspace for months – when we finally fixed the issue and ventilated the space, their persistent headaches actually went away. Whether it’s from a dry trap, a cracked sewer line under the house, or poor venting, don’t live with sewer odors – it’s both unpleasant and unhealthy.

The bottom line: sewer and drain problems are more than just minor annoyances. They can escalate into major events that damage your home’s structure, ruin your belongings, and jeopardize your family’s health. The costs – medical bills, hotel stays during repairs, insurance claims, loss of precious items – far outweigh the cost of preventative maintenance or early repairs. Next, I’ll discuss how we identify these issues, and then we’ll move on to fixing and preventing them.

Notorious Problem Areas in New Hanover County

You might be wondering if your neighborhood is especially prone to sewer troubles.

In my time serving greater Wilmington, I’ve noticed certain areas and neighborhoods tend to have recurring issues – usually due to the age of the homes or local ground conditions.

Homeowners in these spots should be extra vigilant:

Forest Hills & Carolina Place (Wilmington):

These are historic neighborhoods with homes often 70-100 years old. Many houses in Forest Hills (as well as nearby Carolina Place/Ardmore) were built in the 1920s–1950s. Originally, their sewer laterals were clay or cast iron, and in mid-century renovations some got Orangeburg. Today, a lot of those pipes have surpassed their lifespan. I frequently get calls here for root-induced clogs and collapsed Orangeburg lines.

The large old oak trees lining the streets are wonderful for shade – and notorious for sending roots into every cracked pipe. Forest Hills is also near Burnt Mill Creek (a surface water body), and according to CFPUA, the older sewers near waterways and with high groundwater are especially prone to infiltration and problems. That area’s flat topography means any small sag in the line causes trouble. If you live here and haven’t replaced your lateral in recent decades, it’s worth having it inspected. Many homeowners proactively upgrade to PVC after one too many root clogs.

Castle Hayne & Wrightsboro:

These communities north of Wilmington have a mix of older homes, some of which were on septic in the past and later connected to sewer as the county expanded service. A lot of the sewer infrastructure here was added in the 1970s–80s. I’ve found that some homes in Wrightsboro still had Orangeburg pipes going to old septic tanks or to the street – hidden time bombs that finally collapse. Castle Hayne’s soil tends to be sandy and there are areas with a high water table near the Cape Fear and Northeast Cape Fear River. That means pipes here can settle or shift more, and groundwater infiltration is common in older lines (leading to excess flow and occasional sewer spills in low spots).

Homeowners in these areas sometimes notice odor issues – a whiff of sewer gas outside – which can indicate a crack in the line leaking gas. It’s also a semi-rural area, so tree roots (from large pines and hardwoods) frequently clog the lines. If you live in these neighborhoods, keep an eye out for slow drains, and it’s wise to get a camera scope done if you suspect an old Orangeburg or clay lateral still in place. The good news is the lots tend to be bigger (more room to work on repairs), but the bad news is many lines are very long runs out to the street, giving roots more opportunity to intrude along the way.

Ogden & Porters Neck:

This is a high-growth area with lots of homes built from the 1980s through 2000s. The majority have PVC sewer lines, which is great. However, Ogden’s terrain includes marshy sections near Howe Creek and Pages Creek. Homes adjacent to these wetlands or low areas often have continuously wet ground. I’ve seen PVC lines in those areas develop sags because the wet soil wasn’t compacted firmly – essentially the pipe “floats” a bit and then settles unevenly. Also, some of the more wooded lots in Ogden can get root problems even in PVC lines – usually at the joint where the house line connects to the main (that joint is often a mechanical coupling that roots can exploit).

Additionally, with so much new development, the sewer mains in Ogden sometimes struggle with capacity after heavy rains (some older pump stations have been playing catch-up with growth). If you’re in Ogden and notice backups particularly during rainstorms, it could be a municipal issue with inflow, but you should still have your lateral checked to be safe. The Pine Valley area, while not Ogden, is another “wooded subdivision” from the 60s – a lot of those homes have replaced cast iron with PVC by now, but if not, they experience similar issues: lots of big tree roots and occasional bellies in lines due to settling.

Midtown (Wilmington):

“Midtown” covers a broad zone roughly between downtown and the city’s southern areas – including neighborhoods like Glen Meade, Pine Valley, Long Leaf Acres, etc. The homes here range from 1960s ranches to 2000s infill houses. Sewer issues in Midtown depend on the pocket: older sections like around Independence Blvd or Pine Valley Estates had a rash of cast iron pipe failures (many have been relined or replaced since).

Pine Valley in particular, developed in the 1960s-70s, had a lot of cast iron laterals which are now at that ~60 year mark – I’ve replaced dozens in that area. Midtown areas also have some back-pitch problems on laterals due to the subtly rolling topography – I recall a few houses near Independence Mall where the lateral went up and over a rise, leading to chronic belly issues in the dip.

In the past, some Midtown stormwater was tied into sewer (a no-no now), so occasionally someone finds out their yard drain or old basement sump is illegally connected – which during storms can overwhelm the sewer line and cause backups. The utility authority has been working to eliminate those, but if you have an older house and an old pipe that seems to carry gutter water, get it checked. Midtown gets a mix of both worlds: older infrastructure issues plus new development tie-in issues.

Beach Towns (Carolina Beach, Kure Beach):

While not in New Hanover mainland, I’ll mention them for completeness. Coastal homes often deal with extremely high water tables, salt air, and corrosion. Many old beach cottages had cast iron that rusted quickly due to salt exposure. Plus, the barrier island has shifting sands that settle unpredictably – bellies in sewer lines are common. Tree root intrusion is less of an issue by the beach (fewer big trees), but grease clogs are extremely common (perhaps due to rental properties not being careful about what they pour down the sink). Also, during hurricanes or king tides, the sewer systems at the beach get inundated – backflow preventers are critical there. If you own property on the island, be aware of these challenges. The sewer system is pressurized in parts, which is another complexity (grinder pumps that can fail). Always have a sewage backup rider on your insurance for beach homes – seriously.

For residents in any of these areas, knowledge is power. Knowing that your home is in a root-prone 1950s neighborhood, or built on fill soil that might settle, helps you take preventative action (such as more frequent inspections or installing a protective valve). Of course, sewer issues can happen anywhere – I’ve seen a brand new house in Brunswick Forest have a major clog because of construction debris left in the line. But if you’re in a known hotspot, stay alert and consider budgeting for eventual upgrades to your sewer line. Next, let’s talk about how we identify what’s going wrong when you suspect a sewer or drain issue.

Detecting Sewer Line Problems (Inspections and Tests)

When homeowners call me with mysterious drain troubles, the first step is detective work.

Fortunately, modern tools make it much easier to see and pinpoint sewer issues without guesswork.

Here are the main methods we use to detect problems in sewer and drain lines:

Sewer Camera Inspections (CCTV):

This has been a game-changer for plumbing diagnostics. We can send a small video camera on a flexible cable into the sewer cleanout and snake it through your underground pipes. The camera gives us a live view of the pipe’s interior in full color. This way, we can literally see if there are roots infiltrating, cracks in the pipe, collapsed sections, or major grease buildup. Sewer cameras easily spot clogs, tree root intrusions, broken or sagging pipe sections, and other defects. They even let us identify the pipe material (white PVC vs. orange-brown clay vs. black cast iron, etc.). If the pipe is collapsed or blocked completely, the camera might not get through, but then we at least know how far in the obstruction is (the cables are marked for distance).

One important note: while cameras show a lot, they cannot always see leaks if the pipe isn’t visibly cracked – for example, if water is escaping through a loose joint, the camera might not detect the water seepage outside. In those cases, we use other tests. But for most blockages and damage, the camera is our eyes. Homeowners often find the camera inspection fascinating (if not a little gross) – I’ll have you watch the monitor as we go through, and you can see the condition of your pipes first-hand.

It’s common to find, say, a massive root ball at 40 feet out, or a belly full of standing water, or evidence of a partial collapse where the camera has to dunk under water to proceed. The camera also transmits a locator signal, so we can pinpoint above ground exactly where a trouble spot is and how deep, which saves a lot of unnecessary digging. I recommend camera inspections for anyone buying an older home, or anytime you’ve had repeated sewer clogs with no obvious cause – it often reveals the hidden issues.

Smoke Testing:

This is a technique more often used by city utilities (CFPUA does it to find leaky sewer mains), but it can be used for private lines in some cases. Smoke testing involves blowing non-toxic, odorless smoke into the sewer system and seeing where it comes out. We typically plug your vent stack or a downstream manhole, then use a blower to send smoke into the line. If there are illegal connections or cracks, the smoke will escape through them and become visible.

For example, if smoke rises from your yard, there’s likely a break in the pipe there. If it comes out of your gutters or downspouts, those are improperly connected to the sewer. Inside the house, if you see smoke, that means sewer gas could also be leaking there (perhaps a dry trap or cracked pipe in a wall). It’s a very effective way to pinpoint sources of infiltration and exfiltration.

Don’t be alarmed – the “smoke” is actually a special mist and won’t leave residue or cause damage. We always warn the fire department and residents first so nobody thinks the house is on fire! For residential customers, I usually reserve smoke testing for cases where we suspect a leak but can’t find it with cameras (for instance, a sewer odor that isn’t explained by the camera findings). It’s also great for finding sewer gas entry points – if smoke can get out, sewer gas can too.

Dye Testing:

Another method to check cross-connections (like storm to sewer) or leaks is using a fluorescent dye. For instance, if we think a gutter downspout is tied into the sanitary sewer (which it shouldn’t be), we can pour a harmless colored dye into the gutter or area drain and then see if that dye shows up in the sewer flow downstream. Similarly, to test if groundwater is leaking into your sewer line, we might saturate the ground with water containing dye and see if any dye appears in the pipe via the camera. Dye tests are more situational, but they’re part of the toolkit to track where water is flowing.

Hydrostatic (Pressure) Testing:

When a house is being inspected (like real estate transaction) or if we strongly suspect a sewer pipe leak with no visible crack, we can do a pressure test on the line. This typically means plugging the sewer line at the lowest point (often the cleanout by the street) and filling the line with water to a certain level. We then monitor the water level to see if it drops. If it does, that indicates water is leaking out somewhere (i.e. the pipe is compromised).

A variation is an air pressure test, though those are less common for existing lines (they’re more for new construction). Pressure testing can confirm a leak’s existence when the camera can’t tell the full story. Some municipalities require a pressure test of the sewer lateral when a property is sold to ensure it doesn’t leak – a practice aimed at reducing groundwater infiltration. North Tahoe’s utility, for example, notes that a lateral pressure test ensures there are no leaks or cracks in the line. We don’t have a routine requirement like that here, but it’s not a bad idea if you suspect an issue. If a line fails a pressure test, it’s a sure sign it needs repair or lining.

Listening Devices and Locating:

This is a bit more old-school, but for diagnosing drain problems within the house (like in walls) or pinpointing a running leak, we sometimes use sound. For instance, a small leak in a drain line inside a wall might be heard with an acoustic leak detector or even just a mechanic’s stethoscope on the wall. Similarly, if a sewer line has a crack and water is trickling into the soil, we might use electronic leak detection gear (more often used on water supply lines, but can work for drains if there’s enough flow).

Additionally, we use pipe locating wands above ground (which detect the sewer camera’s signal or a sonde) to map where your pipes run. Knowing the exact route of your sewer line helps target digs and also is good info for homeowners (you’ll know, for example, not to plant a tree right above the pipe or build a patio over it without precautions).

Signs and Symptoms (the “low-tech” detection):

I’d be remiss not to mention that your own observations are a critical detection tool. Pay attention to what your plumbing is telling you. As I mentioned earlier, multiple slow drains at once usually indicate a mainline issue. Gurgling sounds from a tub when you flush the toilet are a sign of venting or a nearing clog (air is getting sucked through the trap). A sudden lush patch of grass could be your fertilizer…coming from a leak underground.

The smell of sewage either in the yard or inside (especially near a drain) is a clue. Even pests like an increase in flies or roaches can hint at a hidden sewage leak (they breed in that environment). If you notice any of these, that’s detection in itself – and time to call for a professional inspection.

Once we detect and locate the problem, we can move on to fixing it with the appropriate solution. But without proper diagnosis, any repair is just a guess. I always emphasize to customers: take advantage of the technology. A camera inspection can save you from digging up the entire yard or replacing pipe unnecessarily. It gives peace of mind whether everything is fine or shows exactly what isn’t. Now, let’s look at how we go about repairing or replacing those problematic sewer lines and drains.

Repair and Replacement Options for Sewer Lines

Facing a sewer line issue can be daunting, but the good news is there are more solutions than ever to fix them – often with less disruption than you’d expect.

The right approach depends on the specific problem (and sometimes budget), but here are the main repair and replacement methods available:

Traditional Excavation (“Dig and Replace”):

This is the age-old method: dig up the faulty pipe and put in a new one. For a collapsed Orangeburg or heavily broken clay pipe, often a full replacement is the best long-term fix. We typically dig a trench along the path of the old pipe, remove it, and install new PVC sewer pipe with proper slope and bedding. PVC is the current standard – it’s immune to rot and rust, and joints are glued or gasketed to be watertight. A dig-and-replace can be limited to a small section (spot repair) or the entire run from house to street. The obvious downside is the mess: it tears up landscaping, driveways, etc. In tight urban lots or beautifully landscaped yards, trenching is disruptive.

However, sometimes it’s the only viable option if the pipe is too far gone. The upside of replacement is peace of mind – a brand new pipe can last 50+ years easily, and you essentially reset the clock on sewer worries. We always follow local code for bedding and backfill (clean sand or gravel around the pipe, proper compaction) to avoid future settling issues. After replacement, you’ll want the utility authority to inspect (usually they do) to ensure there are no illegal connections and everything is sealed up.

Some municipalities, like those following International Plumbing Code, require a pressure test on the new lateral to confirm zero leaks before approval. Once done, you have a solid line and can restore your yard. If only a small section was bad (say a 5-foot root-clogged segment), a spot repair dig might suffice – we cut out the bad spot and couple in new PVC. This is cheaper than a full redo but beware: if the rest of the pipe is same age/material, one break often means others aren’t far behind.

Pipe Bursting (Trenchless Replacement):

In cases where digging a full trench is undesirable (maybe you have a nice driveway or mature trees above the line), pipe bursting is a great alternative. Here’s how it works: we excavate two access pits – one near the house, one near the street (or wherever the pipe will end). We then pull a new pipe through the old one, using a special bursting head that fractures the old pipe outward while towing in the new pipe right behind it.

The new pipe is usually HDPE (high-density polyethylene) or PVC and is seamless. As it’s pulled, the old pipe (whether cast iron, clay, or Orangeburg) gets broken apart and pushed into the surrounding soil. This method effectively replaces the entire line without open-trenching the whole distance. It can even upsize the pipe (if needed) by using a larger bursting head. Pipe bursting works well if the old pipe is severely collapsed or root-infested, because it clears its own path. It’s also great when there are obstructions on the surface you can’t or don’t want to remove (patios, trees, sidewalks). The limitations: the old pipe has to mostly follow a straight path (too many bends are tricky), and you need those pulling pits at ends (so if access at either end is an issue, that can complicate things). Also, if there’s a major belly, sometimes bursting just follows the same low path – so it doesn’t correct a slope issue (we have to evaluate that). But overall, it’s an excellent solution and I’ve used it to save a lot of lawns and driveways from destruction.

Pipe Lining (Cured-In-Place Pipe/CIPP):

If the existing pipe is intact enough (not completely collapsed) but has cracks or leaks, we can often rehabilitate it from the inside with an epoxy liner. This process is called cured-in-place pipe lining. We insert a flexible liner soaked in epoxy resin into the sewer line, using access from an upstream cleanout or small pits. Then we inflate the liner so it presses against the inner walls of the old pipe and let it cure (harden). Once cured, it forms a seamless “pipe within a pipe,” sealing any cracks or holes. Essentially, your old clay or cast iron pipe becomes the mold for a new plastic pipe interior. Modern liners can be UV-cured or heat-cured to speed up the process. A big advantage is that lining is trenchless – usually only one access point needed. It also stops root intrusion because it covers joints where roots entered, and it smooths out rough surfaces (improving flow). A properly installed liner can last 30-50 years, so it’s a legitimate long-term fix. There are a few considerations: the pipe diameter is slightly reduced (by the thickness of the liner), but generally not enough to impact flow.

If the pipe is collapsed or has major offsets (sections misaligned), the liner might not be feasible – you need some original channel for the liner to travel through. Another factor is connections – if your lateral has junctions (like a tie-in from another branch), those have to be reopened with a robotic cutter after lining, which adds complexity. But for many residential laterals, especially long ones with minor cracks, CIPP lining is a fantastic option. I’ve lined old cast iron under expensive concrete slab foundations to avoid jackhammering floors – saving homeowners a ton of money and disruption. It’s worth noting that lining doesn’t fix a negative slope; water will still pool in a belly, liner or not. So we use it in cases where the slope is fine but the pipe is leaky or slightly cracked.

Mechanical Spot Repairs (Sleeves, Clamps):

In some instances, we can do a localized repair internally. For example, if a single joint is leaking but digging is tough (say it’s under a slab), we might insert a short stainless steel and rubber sleeve that expands to seal that joint from the inside. These are like tiny stents for pipes. Similarly, there are chemical grouts we can inject at points to stop infiltration (more common in manholes or larger pipes than residential laterals, but it exists).

For minor root entry points, sometimes just using a root cutter and then lining over the joint is enough. There’s also a technique of pipe descaling – for cast iron that’s heavily built up with rust, we use a grinding tool on a cable to scrape the inside clean. This doesn’t repair holes, but it can restore diameter and flow in a rusty pipe prior to lining or to buy time. Descaling is loud and a bit like a medieval torture device (chains spinning in the pipe), but it’s effective at removing hard scale.

Vent Improvements and Repairs:

If the issue is not the main sewer line but the venting, the fixes can range from simple to involved. Often, a gurgling fixture can be cured by adding an additional vent or replacing a clogged vent cap. I’ve seen vents clogged by bird nests or debris – a quick clean-out and installing a proper screen can solve odor issues. In older homes with insufficient vents, we might install an Air Admittance Valve (AAV) under a sink – this is a one-way valve that lets air in to break a vacuum so the drain flows better, acting as a vent where running a new vent pipe is impractical.

Ensuring the main vent stack is intact and not leaking through the roof is also key (sometimes sewer smells in an attic mean a vent pipe has a crack or came loose). All in all, vent fixes are usually easier than pipe replacements – it’s more about tweaking the system so air can move freely, stopping those traps from siphoning. These repairs directly improve the quality of life in the house (no more sewer stench or slow glug-glug drains).

Backflow Preventers:

I mentioned them earlier – these are valves installed in your main sewer line (usually just inside the point where it leaves the house) that allow flow out but not back in. They’re a bit like a one-way flap. In normal operation, you’ll never notice it; if sewage from the municipal line ever surges backward (due to a blockage downstream or floodwaters infiltrating the city system), the valve closes and prevents that sewage from entering your home.

These are essential in flood-prone or low-lying homes. Even if you never have an issue, it’s cheap insurance. Installation requires cutting a section of pipe out and putting the valve assembly (with an access lid for maintenance) in place. They do require occasional checking – every year or two, you should inspect/clean the flap to make sure debris hasn’t stuck it open. I often install these in basements or first-floor bathroom lines in older parts of Wilmington where we know heavy rain can overwhelm the city sewers.

In fact, places like Houston mandate them in some areas because the majority of sewer overflows there were caused by clogs from grease and wipes, which could send sewage into homes without a backflow device. Wilmington doesn’t mandate it broadly, but it’s worth considering if you’ve ever had a city sewer backup on your street.

Working with CFPUA/City on Bigger Issues:

If the problem turns out to be on the city side (like a clogged public sewer main) or due to a design issue in the public system, sometimes the “repair” involves coordination. As a homeowner, you are responsible for your lateral usually up to the property line (or even to the main in some cases). CFPUA handles the mains. If my investigation finds that the city main is surcharged or a city manhole is overflowing, I immediately involve the utility – they may need to clear a blockage or pump down a station.

They have programs, as noted in their sustainability report, to rehabilitate old sewer mains and reduce stormwater infiltration. Occasionally, I’ve had instances where multiple homes on a street have issues and it traces back to an undersized or cracked public line. The fix then might be beyond your property – but you still suffer the effects until it’s resolved. In such cases, documentation (videos, etc.) and persistence in reporting to CFPUA are important. They want to know about problems – sewer overflows are violations of permits and they aim to eliminate them.

Choosing the right repair method depends on specifics: extent of damage, pipe material, depth, location, and of course cost. Trenchless methods (bursting, lining) often cost around the same or slightly more than a traditional replacement, but when you factor in avoiding landscape or driveway restoration, they can be very cost-effective. I always discuss options with homeowners.

For example, if you have a 70-year-old clay line that’s root-filled but mostly intact, we might do a hydro-jet cleaning (high-pressure water blasting to remove roots and grease), then line the pipe to seal it up – all without digging. On the other hand, if the pipe is flattened or the belly is bad, digging it up and laying new pipe with the correct slope is the sure fix.

One other repair approach to mention: maintenance programs. While not a one-time “repair,” some homeowners opt for regular maintenance instead of immediate replacement if budgets are tight. This could involve scheduling an annual or semi-annual root clearing (using a root-cutting machine or a foaming root killer treatment) to keep a root-infested line functional. It doesn’t remove the cause (the cracked pipe where roots get in), but it manages the symptom.

Similarly, periodic enzymatic drain treatments can help keep grease in check for problematic kitchen lines. These measures can buy time, but I always stress that they’re stop-gaps – eventually, a permanent fix will be needed. And if the line’s condition is structurally unsound, maintenance won’t prevent an eventual collapse.

The encouraging part is that homeowners today have access to techniques that minimize digging and maximize longevity of repairs. No one method is best for all situations, but with a thorough diagnosis, we can apply the solution that makes the most sense. And trust me, when you see your drains working smoothly again and know that foul sewer woes are behind you, it’s a huge relief!

Tips for Homeowners: Prevention, Maintenance, and When to Call a Plumber

After all this talk of problems, let’s focus on how you can prevent or minimize sewer and drain issues in your home.

As the saying goes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure – and that’s definitely true with plumbing.

Here are my top tips, combining common-sense habits with a bit of proactive care:

1. Watch What Goes Down the Drain:

The simplest preventive step is to be mindful of your waste. In the kitchen, never pour fats, oils, or grease down the sink. Let them cool and harden in a container, then throw it in the trash (or use a grease recycling program if available). Remember that grease is a major cause of blockages and sewer overflows. Use sink strainers to catch food scraps and empty them into the trash or compost. In bathrooms, only flush human waste and toilet paper. No “flushable” wipes! – despite their marketing, they often clog pipes and sewer pumps. A

lso avoid flushing feminine products, cotton swabs, dental floss, etc. A good rule: if it didn’t come from your body and it’s not regular TP, don’t flush it. Even in the garbage disposal, go easy – fibrous foods (celery, onion skins) and coffee grounds can accumulate in pipes. By keeping inappropriate items out of your drains, you prevent the buildup that leads to clogs.

2. Mind the Trees:

Before planting trees or shrubs, find out where your sewer lateral runs (you can often get a sketch from CFPUA or have utility locates done – though sewer laterals might not be marked by 811, a plumber can locate it). Avoid planting thirsty, deep-rooted trees directly above or near your sewer line route. If you have existing mature trees near your line, consider a barrier – some products can be buried to slowly release root inhibitors near the pipe. I’ve seen people remove a beloved tree to save their sewer line; that’s a personal choice, but at least be aware that those roots will seek out your pipe if it’s old or has any leakage.

For existing root issues, an annual treatment with a foaming root killer (copper sulfate or similar, safe for pipes but kills roots on contact) can help keep roots at bay. This is usually done after clearing the roots mechanically, to slow regrowth. It’s not a permanent fix, but it can extend the time between major cleanouts.

3. Regular Inspections (Especially for Older Homes):

If your home is over 40 years old and the sewer line has never been inspected, it’s worth doing a preventive sewer camera inspection. Think of it like a colonoscopy for your house – not fun to think about, but it can catch problems early! Many plumbers (myself included) offer camera inspections at a reasonable cost, and it can give you peace of mind. If everything looks good, great – you know your pipes’ condition. If we see issues starting (like hairline cracks, slight root intrusions), you can plan ahead rather than react to an emergency. I recommend an inspection every few years for homes with clay or cast iron lines, and annually if you’ve had root issues before.

Newer PVC lines don’t need frequent checking unless you suspect a problem (or have been abusing the drain with grease). Also, get an inspection before buying a home – a standard home inspection usually doesn’t include a sewer line check, and you don’t want a $10k sewer replacement surprise after closing. Data from home inspectors and sewer companies suggest a significant percentage of older homes have some type of sewer defect, so it’s a worthwhile add-on to the buying process.

4. Don’t Ignore Early Warnings:

As we discussed, drains often “talk” to you when something is wrong – that gurgle, that slow emptying sink, that whiff of sewer smell occasionally. These are early warning signs. It’s tempting to flush a slow drain with some over-the-counter drain cleaner and call it a day. But chemical cleaners usually don’t fix the underlying issue (and they can corrode older pipes if overused). If you have to plunge a toilet frequently or use drain cleaner repeatedly, something is wrong down the line.

Get it inspected. The sooner you address a partial blockage or minor leak, the easier and cheaper the fix. For example, a small root invasion can be cut out relatively quickly; if you wait until the pipe is fully blocked and broken, now you’re looking at excavation or lining. Also, if only one fixture is slow (say, just one sink), it might just be that fixture’s trap or branch line – which you can often clear yourself. But if multiple fixtures are slow or backing up, that points to the main sewer – time to call a plumber.

5. Use Water and Appliances Wisely:

This might sound odd, but how you use water can affect your drains. For instance, if you have a low-flow toilet and you toss a big wad of toilet paper in, sometimes there isn’t enough water to push it all the way out the house (especially if the line has a rough interior like old cast iron). I advise people: don’t be stingy with flushes. It’s better to flush twice than to clog the line. Likewise, spread out high-water-usage activities if you suspect drainage issues – e.g., don’t run the washing machine and multiple showers and dishwashers all at once; an overloaded drain line might not handle sudden large volumes if it’s partially obstructed. This is more for folks already having some symptoms.

If everything’s healthy, your system should handle simultaneous flows by design. Another tip: avoid harsh chemicals down the drain. Besides drain cleaners, things like paint, solvents, or excessive bleach can damage older pipes and kill the beneficial bacteria in septic systems (if you have one). For homes on city sewer, those chemicals can still attack your own pipes and also create hazards in the sewer system.

6. Protect Against Storm Surges:

If your neighborhood is known to flood or you’ve had past sewer backups during heavy rain, take action. As mentioned, consider a backwater valve installation – it’s a professional job, but not terribly expensive compared to flood damage. Also, check that any yard or foundation drains do not connect to your sanitary sewer. By code they shouldn’t, but in older homes sometimes they are. Disconnect downspouts from sewer lines – direct them to splash blocks or french drains away from the foundation.

The City of Chicago found that disconnecting downspouts citywide made a huge difference in reducing sewer backups. While our setup is different (we largely have separate storm sewers), the principle stands: the less extraneous water entering your sewer lateral, the better. If you have a sump pump for groundwater, make sure it pumps outside to the yard or storm drain, not into the sanitary line. During hurricane season, if a big storm is forecast, you can even take a precaution of placing screw-in caps or plugs on basement floor drains (if you have a basement) to prevent backup, but only do this if you know what you’re doing (and remove after the threat, so the drain works again).

7. Know When to Call a Professional:

DIY has its limits with sewer lines. Certainly, you can plunge a toilet, snake a small drain, or clear a hair clog from a shower. But when it comes to the main sewer, specialized equipment and expertise are usually needed. You should call a plumber when: multiple drains back up simultaneously, you suspect a foreign object is stuck in the toilet line (we’ve all had kids drop a toy down there!), you smell sewage and can’t locate the source, you have repeated backups despite your efforts, or you just want the peace of mind of an expert inspection. Also, if you do clear a clog and it keeps coming back, that recurrence means something downstream (like roots or a damaged section) is acting like a “trap” – time to get it fixed properly.

Remember, sewer work can be hazardous – not just from germs, but also gases. I always wear proper protective gear and use gas detectors in enclosed spaces; homeowners typically don’t have that equipment. There’s also the legal aspect: any work that involves replacing a sewer line or tapping into the city main requires permits and following code. Professionals handle all that for you and ensure the work is safe and up to standard.

8. Consider Sewer Line Insurance or Maintenance Plans:

This is optional, but many insurers now offer riders for sewer/drain backups. Given the costly damage a backup can cause, it’s worth a call to your insurance to see if you’re covered and add it if not.

There are also plans (sometimes through utilities or third-parties) that, for a small monthly fee, cover repairs to your sewer lateral if it fails. CFPUA doesn’t directly offer it, but companies like HomeServe do in our area. The value of these plans depends on your situation (they often have fine print), but if you have a very old line and no funds to replace it, such a plan could be a safety net – just do your homework on reviews of those services.

To wrap up, being proactive is the key.

“Homeowners usually don’t think about their sewer lines until there’s sewage in the bathtub. My advice? Don’t wait for a disaster – stay ahead of trouble with regular inspections and know the warning signs.” – Justin Wilder, Owner, Wild Water Plumbing.

Most homeowners don’t think about their sewer lines until something goes wrong.

I encourage you not to wait for an emergency.

A little awareness and preventative action can save you from the awful experience of a sewage backup or the hefty price of extensive repairs and home restoration.

And always remember, I’m here to help – if you have any suspicions or just want to chat about your home’s plumbing health, give me a call.

We can work with you to ensure your sewer system remains the unseen, unsung hero of your home rather than a source of disasters.

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Sources:

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2. FEMA. (n.d.). Flood Hazards and Protection Measures. Retrieved from https://www.fema.gov/flood-hazards

3. Cape Fear Public Utility Authority (CFPUA). (2022). Annual Sewer System Report. Retrieved from https://www.cfpua.org/

4. InterNACHI (International Association of Certified Home Inspectors). (n.d.). Sewer Gas Dangers. Retrieved from https://www.nachi.org/sewer-gas

5. City of Chicago, Department of Water Management. (2019). Downspout Disconnection Initiative Report. Retrieved from https://www.chicago.gov

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11. Clean Water Action. (2020). Fat, Oil, and Grease Management in Sewer Systems. Retrieved from https://www.cleanwateraction.org/

12. American Public Works Association (APWA). (2022). Managing Wastewater Systems: Best Practices. Retrieved from https://www.apwa.net/

13. North Carolina State University (NCSU) Cooperative Extension. (2022). Tree Root Control in Sewer Lines. Retrieved from https://www.ces.ncsu.edu/

14. American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE). (2021). Pipe Replacement and Trenchless Technology Guide. Retrieved from https://www.asce.org/

15. National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH). (2021). Hydrogen Sulfide: Workplace Safety and Health Topics. Retrieved from https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/topics/hydrogensulfide/

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