Warning Signs of a Failing Water Heater (Gas or Electric)

The article includes:

• Common warning signs that your gas or electric water heater is failing (strange noises, leaks, inconsistent temperatures, rust-colored water, etc.).

• The different types of water heater failures and what causes them.

• The dangers of DIY plumbing repairs and why professional installation is important.

• A breakdown of different water heater tank sizes and which one is ideal for different household needs.

• The benefits of switching to a tankless water heater, including efficiency and long-term savings.

• Rough cost estimates for replacing or upgrading to a new water heater.

• Local incentives and rebate programs that might help reduce costs in North Carolina.

• Contact Wild Water Plumbing for expert water heater inspections and replacements.

Warning Signs of a Failing Water Heater (Gas or Electric) – and the Benefits of Upgrading to a New Unit

Hi there, Justin Wilder here! I’m a licensed plumber and the owner of Wild Water Plumbing, serving homeowners across Onslow, Pender, Carteret, and New Hanover counties in North Carolina.

Over the years, I’ve seen my fair share of failing water heaters. One day it’s working fine, and the next you’re taking an ice-cold shower or mopping up a flooded garage. In this article, I’ll walk you through the most common warning signs that your gas or electric water heater is on its last legs, explain what causes these failures, and share why upgrading to a new unit can save you hassle and money in the long run.

I’ll also highlight the dangers of DIY repairs (trust me on this – I’ve been called in to fix many a DIY disaster) and give you the lowdown on choosing the right size heater for your household.

We’ll discuss the benefits of modern tankless water heaters – from efficiency and space savings to endless hot water – and even touch on rough cost estimates for different types of water heaters and installations. Finally, since I’m writing this from coastal North Carolina, I’ll mention local incentives and rebate programs that can make upgrading more affordable for folks here in NC.

So grab a cup of coffee and settle in – by the end of this (admittedly long and detailed) guide, you’ll be well-equipped to spot water heater trouble before you end up with a cold shower, and you’ll know your options for a replacement. Let’s dive in!

Common Warning Signs of a Failing Water Heater

How do you know when your water heater is going bad? Thankfully, most water heaters give off some pretty clear warning signs before they completely fail.

By recognizing these symptoms early, you can call a plumber (hi!) to inspect or replace the unit before you’re left without hot water or dealing with water damage. Here are the most common red flags that your water heater (gas or electric) may be failing:

• No Hot Water or Running Out of Hot Water Quickly: The most obvious sign of a failing water heater is turning on the tap and getting nothing but cold water. If your electric heater’s heating elements have burnt out or your gas burner isn’t igniting, the unit won’t heat water at all. In some cases you might get lukewarm water or hot water that runs out far faster than it used to. This could indicate that one of the heating elements in an electric heater has failed or that sediment buildup in a tank has reduced the amount of hot water available (7 Warning Signs Your Hot Water Heater Is Failing | Constellation) (7 Warning Signs Your Hot Water Heater Is Failing | Constellation). Sediment takes up space that should be filled with hot water, so your 50-gallon tank might effectively become a 40-gallon tank. If you’re constantly racing to finish a shower before the hot water turns cold, your water heater is screaming for attention. It might be possible to replace a bad thermostat or element, but if the unit is old, consider replacement, as multiple components may be near failure.
• Leaks or Puddles Around the Water Heater: If you notice water pooling under or around your water heater, that’s a sign of serious trouble. A leaking tank often means internal corrosion has eaten through the metal (7 Warning Signs Your Hot Water Heater Is Failing | Constellation). Unfortunately, if the tank itself is leaking, there’s no fix – the water heater will need to be replaced. Check carefully around the base and seams of the tank for drips. Sometimes, leaks can come from fittings or valves rather than the tank: a loose drain valve, a leaking pipe joint, or a failing temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve can all cause water to leak. Double-check that all valves are closed tightly and connections are snug. If a fitting is the culprit, a plumber can likely replace that part. But if the metal tank has a pinhole leak or worse, it’s time to start shopping for a new heater. Don’t delay, because leaks tend to get worse, and a major tank rupture could flood your home.
• Strange or Rumbling Noises from the Tank: Bangs, pops, rumbling, or whistling noises coming from your water heater are not normal. Sediment buildup is a common cause of sounds – when sediment settles at the bottom of a tank and water gets trapped underneath, it turns to steam and bursts up, causing loud popping or bubbling noises. You might also hear a rumbling sound as hot water pushes through the sediment layer. In other cases, loose components or mineral deposits around the heating elements can cause a humming or buzzing noise. If you have a gas water heater making a roaring or rumbling noise when the burner is on, that could indicate burner or combustion issues. The bottom line: any new, loud noises from your heater merit an inspection. While some noises can be solved by flushing the tank to remove sediment, persistent sounds could mean the tank is deteriorating internally (7 Warning Signs Your Hot Water Heater Is Failing | Constellation). I once visited a homeowner in Wilmington who described the sound coming from his water heater as “a coffee pot percolator mixed with a freight train.” Sure enough – his tank had inches of sediment built up. We flushed it out and the noise quieted, but I also warned him that if the unit was old, the sediment had likely taken a toll on the tank’s interior. If you’re hearing a concert from your utility closet, don’t ignore it.
• Rusty or Discolored Hot Water: Turn on your hot water tap and check the color of the water. Is it coming out brown, reddish, or with rust particles? Rusty or murky water is a classic sign of a water heater problem (7 Warning Signs Your Hot Water Heater Is Failing | Constellation). It often means that the inside of your steel water heater tank is rusting. Water heater tanks are coated internally to resist corrosion, and there’s a sacrificial anode rod inside that attracts corrosive elements to protect the tank. But after years, that coating wears thin and the anode rod gets used up, allowing rust to start eating the tank from the inside (7 Warning Signs Your Hot Water Heater Is Failing | Constellation). The rust then shows up in your hot water. Rusty hot water won’t harm you immediately, but it can taste awful and stain your sinks or laundry. More importantly, it means your water heater is likely on borrowed time – a rusted tank leads to leaks. In some cases, discolored hot water could come from rusty pipes in the home’s plumbing, but if it’s only on the hot side and especially if accompanied by other signs like noises or heat loss, the heater is the prime suspect. Replacing the anode rod might help if the rust is minor and the tank isn’t too old, but usually, rust means the tank is failing. Plan to replace the unit before it leaks.
• Fluctuating Water Temperatures: Perhaps you’ve noticed that when you shower, the hot water temperature swings from hot to cold unpredictably, even though you haven’t adjusted the handles. Inconsistent water temperature is another warning sign. It could indicate a failing thermostat or heating element inside an electric water heater (7 Warning Signs Your Hot Water Heater Is Failing | Constellation). For gas units, it might mean the gas valve or burner assembly is malfunctioning. Another cause can be sediment on the bottom of the tank – it can cover the burner or elements and make heating inconsistent. If you’re lucky, you might just have a bad thermostat, which can be replaced relatively easily by a professional. But if your unit is older and multiple components (thermostat, elements, gas valve) are aging, those fluctuating temperatures signal it might be time for a new heater. Don’t crank the thermostat in the meantime – you could risk scalding settings trying to compensate for a failing unit. Get it checked out.
• Low Hot Water Pressure: Over time, mineral deposits and sediment can also clog up the pipes or the output of your water heater, leading to weaker hot water pressure at your taps (7 Warning Signs Your Hot Water Heater Is Failing | Constellation). If you notice that only your hot water fixtures have lower pressure (while cold is fine), the heater might be the bottleneck. Sediment buildup in the tank or in the hot water lines acts like a blockage. In electric heaters, scale can also clog the openings in the heating elements or in any heat traps in the plumbing. Low pressure can also result from a kink or narrowing in the hot outlet pipe, or a partially closed valve. But in many cases I’ve seen around here in coastal NC, sediment from our water can accumulate quickly if a heater isn’t flushed regularly, causing pressure and flow issues on the hot side. Flushing the tank might restore some pressure if done early, but if the buildup is severe, it could be time for a replacement unit. Think of it like arteries clogged with plaque – at some point, you need a bypass (in this case, a new heater) to restore full flow.
• Your Water Heater Is Old (10+ Years): Sometimes, the warning sign is simply age. If your water heater is over 10 years old, it’s statistically nearing the end of its useful life (7 Warning Signs Your Hot Water Heater Is Failing | Constellation). Most traditional tank water heaters last about 10-15 years at best (7 Warning Signs Your Hot Water Heater Is Failing | Constellation). After a decade, even if it seems to be working okay, internal parts may be deteriorating – the anode rod is likely used up, sediment has accumulated, and metal parts may be fatigued. An older heater is much more prone to leak or fail suddenly. I often advise homeowners: if your tank is 12-15 years old and you start noticing even one of the other warning signs like a small leak, a little rust, or occasional lukewarm water, plan to replace the heater soon. It’s better to schedule a controlled replacement at your convenience than to come home to a flooded floor because the tank finally gave out. Newer models are also more efficient, so you’ll likely save on energy costs (more on that later). Check the manufacture date on your unit (there’s often a label or you can decode the serial number) – you might be surprised to find your “new” heater is a decade old already.
• Pilot Light Keeps Going Out (Gas Heaters): For those with gas water heaters, keep an eye on the pilot light (if it’s a older style unit with a standing pilot). If the pilot flame keeps going out, that’s a sign of trouble. It could be a bad thermocouple (the safety sensor that tells the gas valve the pilot is lit) or a problem with the gas supply or valve. Sometimes a draft can blow out pilots, but if it’s a recurring issue, the burner assembly might need service or parts replaced. Modern gas heaters often have hot-surface or electronic ignition (no standing pilot), but they can show error codes or issues lighting the burner. Repeated ignition failures mean it’s time for a checkup – either a repair or possibly consider replacing an aging gas unit for reliability.
• Signs of Corrosion or Moisture on the Unit: Even if you don’t see an active leak, notice any corrosion or rust on the outside of the tank or around pipe connections. This can indicate slow leaks or condensation that have been happening over time. Rust on the bottom of the tank, or around the TPR valve or drain valve, is a bad sign. If the top of the water heater (where the hot/outlet and cold/inlet connections are) shows heavy corrosion, those connections might be leaking or the anode rod port is rusting out – either scenario is a harbinger of failure. Also, if the burner assembly on a gas heater is rusty or sooted up, that means it’s not burning cleanly – possibly from age or damage. Give your heater a visual once-over periodically; surface rust or moisture is often the first visible hint of a failing tank.

In short, pay attention to your hot water. It often tells you something is wrong before the situation becomes an emergency. If you catch these warning signs early – whether it’s noise, rust, leaks, or loss of heating performance – you can often avoid the worst outcomes (like a basement full of water or a total loss of hot water when you least expect it). In many cases, a qualified plumber can repair or replace a component to extend the life of the heater, but if multiple signs are occurring and the unit is old, it’s likely time to think about a new water heater.

Next, let’s talk about why water heaters fail in the first place. Understanding the underlying causes can help you make informed decisions about maintenance and when to repair vs. replace.

Types of Water Heater Failures and What Causes Them

Water heaters are generally quite simple in function – they heat water and store it (in tank models) until you need it. But a lot of things can go wrong internally that lead to the warning signs we just covered. Here are the common types of water heater failures and their causes:

• Sediment Buildup and Mineral Deposits: Over time, minerals in the water (like calcium and lime) plus other debris settle at the bottom of the tank. This sediment buildup can cause multiple problems. It insulates the water from the burner or lower heating element, making the heater less efficient and overworking the burner/element. It can also harden and bang around (causing noise), and reduce the effective volume of the tank (so less hot water available). Sediment can clog the drain valve and even cause overheating that damages the tank or elements. In areas with hard water, sediment accumulates faster. If not periodically flushed out, it’s one of the leading causes of water heater failure. Think of sediment like cholesterol in arteries – a little can be managed, a lot will cause a heart attack (or in this case, a water heater “heart attack”).
• Corrosion (Rust) Inside the Tank: Water + steel = rust, eventually. Water heater tanks are built with glass linings and anode rods to prevent rust, but these defenses only last so long. Eventually, the anode (a rod of usually magnesium or aluminum inside the tank) gets consumed while protecting the tank. Once it’s gone, the tank walls start to corrode. This leads to rusty water and ultimately leaks when the metal thins out and pinholes form (7 Warning Signs Your Hot Water Heater Is Failing | Constellation). Corrosion can also affect connections and fittings. Once a tank is significantly rusted inside, failure is just a matter of time – and there’s no way to reverse it. This is why water heaters have a limited lifespan. Regularly replacing the anode rod can greatly extend a tank’s life, but few homeowners do this until it’s too late. In coastal NC, our humid environment can also cause exterior corrosion, but it’s the inside that usually gives way first.
• Heating Element or Burner Failure: In electric heaters, the heating elements (there are usually two elements that actually heat the water) can burn out or short out. If one element fails, you’ll get some hot water (from the remaining element) but not as much, and slower recovery. If both elements fail or if the thermostat fails, you’ll get no hot water at all. Heating elements can also get coated in mineral scale, reducing their effectiveness until they overheat and fail. In gas water heaters, the burner or pilot components can fail. Common issues are a bad thermocouple (which shuts off gas if pilot goes out), a clogged burner orifice, or a faulty gas control valve. If the burner doesn’t ignite, the water won’t heat. These component failures are often due to age, lack of maintenance, or in some cases fuel or electrical issues (power surges can fry thermostats, for example). Replacing elements or burners is usually possible, but if the unit is older, you might fix one thing only to have another fail soon after.
• Thermostat or Gas Control Failure: The thermostat (in electric units, usually one per element) regulates temperature. If a thermostat gets stuck off, you might get lukewarm water or none; if it gets stuck on, it can overheat the water, causing dangerously hot water and high tank pressure. Overheating is extremely dangerous – that’s why all tanks have a T&P relief valve to vent pressure. A failing thermostat can cause inconsistent temperatures, one of the warning signs. In gas heaters, the gas control valve assembly is like the thermostat – if it malfunctions, it might not deliver fuel to the burner, or it could let the water get too hot. Modern electronic controls might display a fault code if there’s an issue. Any control failure can often be fixed by replacing that part, but again, age plays a role in whether it’s worth it. If a 12-year-old heater needs an expensive gas valve replacement, you’re often better off investing in a new unit.
• Leaks and Tank Failure: The end-of-life scenario for a water heater is typically a leaking tank. This is usually due to the internal corrosion we discussed. It can also happen if the tank experiences stress, like excessive pressure (for example, if the T&P valve fails or is capped off – never do that – and the heater over-pressurizes). High pressure from overheating or from external pressure issues can cause the tank to bulge and leak or even burst in extreme cases. (Water heaters can literally explode like a rocket if both the thermostat sticks on and the T&P safety valve fails – it’s rare, but it’s why those safeties exist and why DIY tinkering with them is dangerous.) Leaks can also come from fittings, but the most devastating is a tank seam split or bottom rust-out. Causes include age, corrosion, water hammer (sudden pressure shocks) over time, or manufacturing defects in rare cases. Once a tank springs a leak, there’s no repairing it – replacement is the only option.
• Dip Tube Failure: One less obvious failure is a broken dip tube. The dip tube is a plastic tube inside tank heaters that directs incoming cold water to the bottom of the tank (so hot water at top can flow out). Some older water heaters (late 1990s era) had dip tube issues where they’d disintegrate. If a dip tube breaks, cold water might mix at the top, causing hot water to run out fast or be lukewarm. You might also find bits of plastic in aerators. This is a specific issue that can be fixed by replacing the dip tube, but again mostly applies to units of a certain age. Modern units don’t have that widespread defect, but dip tubes can still crack occasionally.
• Ventilation or Air Supply Issues (Gas Heaters): A gas water heater needs proper venting of exhaust gases (like carbon monoxide) and adequate air for combustion. If vents become blocked (like by a bird nest in a chimney vent, or debris), the heater can backdraft or shut off for safety. Similarly, if the area is starved of oxygen (e.g. a utility closet that’s sealed too tight), the flame may starve and fail. These aren’t exactly “water heater failures” internally, but they are operational failures that can cause the heater to stop heating or create dangerous carbon monoxide situations. Usually, you’d notice the pilot going out or the burner not staying lit if this is the case. The cause could be external (vent obstruction, lack of makeup air) or a flue design flaw. Professional installation and regular checks will mitigate this.
• Electrical Problems (for Electric Units): Aside from the heating elements themselves, electric heaters can suffer from wiring issues, blown fuses or breakers, or melted wire connections. I’ve opened access panels to find charred wires from a loose connection that arced. If an electric heater suddenly stops working, it could be a tripped limit switch (many have a safety reset), or an external issue like a bad breaker. While not a “failure of the water heater” per se, it’s a failure that affects the heater. A qualified electrician or plumber should diagnose these since electricity is nothing to mess with (especially around water).

As you can see, a lot of these failures trace back to old age and lack of maintenance. A well-maintained water heater (flushed yearly, anode rod checked every few years, etc.) can reach the upper end of its lifespan. But eventually, metal rusts, parts wear out, and failures happen. Knowing what caused your water heater issue can help decide if a repair is feasible or if it’s time to replace. For example, replacing a heating element or thermostat on a 5-year-old electric heater might make sense and give it many more years of life. But if that same failure happens on a 12-year-old unit that’s also rumbling and showing rust, it’s likely smarter to upgrade to a new unit.

Before we talk about the benefits of upgrading, a quick but important word on safety: why DIY water heater repair is often a bad idea.

The Dangers of DIY Plumbing Repairs (Why You Should Call a Pro)

In the age of YouTube tutorials, it’s tempting to try and fix your water heater yourself or hire a handy neighbor to save a buck. As a plumber, I completely understand the urge – some repairs seem straightforward. But I’ve also seen DIY attempts go horribly wrong, turning a small problem into a big expensive mess. Here are some major dangers of DIY water heater repairs or installations that every homeowner should consider:

• Risk of Electrical Shock or Fire: Water heaters, especially electric ones, are high-voltage appliances. Messing with wiring or heating elements without proper knowledge can result in electric shock. I’ve heard horror stories (and unfortunately seen a few) of folks forgetting to cut power at the breaker and getting zapped while swapping an element. Even if you avoid shock, a small mistake like a loose electrical connection can generate heat and sparks, potentially causing a fire. Electric water heaters draw a lot of current – any repair that’s not done exactly right is playing with fire (literally). Professionals use voltage testers, know the wiring diagrams, and ensure everything is tightened to spec. It’s not worth risking your life to avoid a service call (5 Dangers Of DIY Water Heater Repair).
• Gas Leaks and Explosion Hazards: For gas water heaters, improper reassembly or installation can lead to gas leaks. Natural gas (or propane) is highly flammable. A minor leak can cause a fire or explosion if gas accumulates and finds an ignition source. One of the scariest scenarios is a water heater explosion due to improper work on the burner or safety controls. If a DIY repair bypasses or damages the gas control or the T&P relief valve, the water heater can overheat and build pressure unchecked. This can literally make the heater explode like a rocket through the roof (you can find videos of water heater explosions – it’s shocking). High gas pressure or leaving the gas supply on when working can also cause a dangerous situation (5 Dangers Of DIY Water Heater Repair). Plumbers have gas detectors and perform leak tests after any gas-line work. If you smell even a hint of gas around your water heater, that’s an emergency – shut it off and call a professional immediately.
• Carbon Monoxide (CO) Poisoning: This is a silent danger with gas appliances. If a gas water heater is not properly vented or the combustion is incomplete, it can produce carbon monoxide, an odorless deadly gas. DIY installers might not be familiar with venting codes, proper chimney pipe installation, or might improperly adjust the burner. I’ve encountered water heaters where a DIY installer didn’t secure the vent pipe properly or left it disconnected – very dangerous. Always have a CO detector near your gas appliances, and let a pro handle any gas or vent modifications. Carbon monoxide poisoning can be fatal, and sadly, it often results from well-meaning but improper DIY work on furnaces or water heaters.
• Water Damage from Leaks or Flooding: If you’re changing out a part and don’t re-seal threads correctly or miss a connection, you could end up with serious water leaks. I’ve been to homes where a DIY thermostat replacement went wrong – the T&P valve was accidentally opened or disturbed and wouldn’t reseal, resulting in a steady leak that flooded the area. Even something as seemingly simple as draining and flushing the heater can go awry if the drain valve sticks open or breaks (some cheap plastic drain valves can break off). A professional knows how to mitigate these issues, and we carry spare parts in case something breaks. We also have insurance in case of any mishap. If you DIY and flood your own house, your insurance might cover it (or might not, if they find negligence). But either way, you’ll be on the hook for the cleanup deductible and hassle. One wrong twist of a wrench can convert your water heater into a mini flood generator.
• Scalding or Boiling Water Risks: A faulty repair could result in water temperature that’s way too hot. If, say, a DIYer bypasses the thermostat or installs the wrong type of heating element, the water could reach boiling temperatures. This not only risks the explosion scenario, but it also means scalding water coming out of your taps. Water above 140°F can cause burns in seconds. I’ve seen a DIY job where someone thought they were clever and adjusted a water heater to max trying to fix a hot water shortage – they ended up with water so hot it tripped the safety and steam was coming out of the T&P valve. That’s a situation you don’t want. A pro will ensure the thermostat is set to a safe temperature (typically ~120°F is recommended).
• Voiding Warranties and Insurance Issues: Most new water heaters come with manufacturer warranties that often require professional installation. If you DIY install a new unit and something goes wrong, the manufacturer might not honor the warranty. The same goes for certain repairs – if you use non-OEM parts or improper procedures, you could void coverage. Additionally, if a DIY installation doesn’t comply with local plumbing code, your home insurance could potentially refuse claims related to that unit. For example, if you install a water heater without the required expansion tank or earthquake straps (in areas that need them) and it fails catastrophically, an insurance adjuster might find that it wasn’t to code. Using a licensed plumber protects you – we pull permits when required, follow code, and our work will stand up to any scrutiny.
• Health and Safety Hazards (Chemicals, Mold): Removing an old water heater can be nasty – the water left inside can be gross, and sediment is sometimes full of bacteria (ever smelled “rotten egg” odor from hot water? That’s sulfur-reducing bacteria reacting with anode rods). You could expose yourself to unpleasant or even harmful stuff. Also, a leaking heater that was left unaddressed can grow mold in surrounding areas; a professional will take precautions when removing a moldy, leaking unit. DIYers might not. There’s also the aspect of simply handling heavy equipment – a 50-gallon water heater is bulky and can weigh 150+ lbs when drained but with sediment. I’ve tweaked my back moving them even with dollies and helpers. An improper lift can injure you.
• Improper Tools and Techniques: Plumbers come equipped with proper tools – pipe cutters, specific sized wrenches, gas leak detection solution, voltmeters, etc. We also have experience – which is invaluable. For instance, knowing how much to tighten a gas line fitting (with pipe dope/tape) vs. a dielectric water line connection. Over-tighten a fitting and you can crack it; under-tighten and it leaks. Soldering copper pipes is an art that takes practice (many DIYers end up with leaky solder joints or burnt insulation in the wall). If you’re installing a tankless, there are even more skills needed (like sizing gas lines, running new vent pipe, or high-power electrical connections). Mistakes can be costly. By hiring a professional, you ensure the job’s done right the first time and save yourself the headache of trying to troubleshoot an improper DIY repair that didn’t actually solve the issue.

In summary, while I applaud homeowners who are handy and take pride in their homes, the water heater is one area where professional service is highly recommended. It’s not just about getting the hot water back on – it’s about doing it safely and in a way that won’t cause bigger problems down the road. As a plumber, my top priority is your safety and preventing damage to your home. I’ve undergone extensive training to handle gas, electric, and plumbing systems properly.

If your water heater is acting up, have a professional inspect it. Sometimes a minor repair by a pro can extend its life a couple more years. And when it’s time for a replacement, a pro will ensure the new unit is installed correctly, safely, and up to code – including necessary expansion tanks, drain pans, earthquake straps (if needed), proper venting, and disposal of the old unit. We also handle the permit and inspection process when required by local regulations, so you don’t have to worry about any of that.

Okay, now that my safety PSA is over 😄, let’s move on to selecting a new water heater – specifically, how to choose the right size and type for your home, and why upgrading might be very beneficial.

Water Heater Tank Sizes and Choosing the Right Capacity

If you’ve decided (or been forced) to replace your old water heater, one of the key decisions is what size (capacity) you need. Traditional tank-style water heaters come in various gallon capacities. Choosing the right size ensures you have enough hot water for your household needs without wasting energy. Here’s an overview of common water heater tank sizes and which household sizes they typically suit:

• 1 to 2 People: A tank in the range of 30 to 40 gallons is usually sufficien (Sizing Guide: What Size Water Heater Do I Need for My Home?)】. If it’s just you or you and a partner in the home, a smaller tank will cover showers, laundry, and dishes – as long as you’re not doing all those at once. For example, a 30-gallon electric heater can often provide enough hot water for a shower while running a load of laundry, but you might be cutting it close with back-to-back showers. I often recommend erring on the 40-gallon side if you enjoy longer showers or have a large bathtub, even with 1-2 people.
• 2 to 3 People: Look at 40 to 50 gallon water heater (Sizing Guide: What Size Water Heater Do I Need for My Home?)】. This is a very common size in many homes. For instance, a household with two adults and a child, or three roommates, could use a 50-gallon electric or a 40-gallon gas heater (gas heaters recover hot water faster, so you can often go a bit smaller in capacity). If your family likes to take showers around the same time each morning, a 50-gallon gives a nice buffer.
• 3 to 4 People: Aim for *50 to 60 gallons (Sizing Guide: What Size Water Heater Do I Need for My Home?)】. A family of four, especially with teenagers who take long showers, will benefit from a 50+ gallon tank. You can find 55-gallon or 60-gallon models, or just standard 50s which are very common. Again, if it’s gas, a 50-gallon gas water heater might suffice for 4 people because of the quicker recovery rate (gas can heat a tank faster than a typical electric element can). But if it’s electric and you have a large tub or multi-bathroom home, leaning towards 80 gallons might be insurance.
• 5 or More People: Consider 75 to 80 gallon tank water heater (Sizing Guide: What Size Water Heater Do I Need for My Home?). Large families or multi-generational households that use a lot of hot water will need the biggest residential tanks or potentially even multiple water heaters in tandem. An 80-gallon electric unit is a beast that can handle a lot of demand, but remember it’ll also take longer to heat up from empty. Some homes with very high demand (say 5+ people, plus multiple bathrooms, a large soaking tub, frequent laundry) might even install two standard water heaters (this is sometimes more cost-effective than one massive commercial unit).

These guidelines are rough estimate (Sizing Guide: What Size Water Heater Do I Need for My Home?)】, of course. Hot water usage varies by lifestyle. For example, if you have teenagers (I’ll say no more!), you might bump up one size. If you have an oversized jacuzzi bathtub that you love to fill, you need enough gallons to fill it with hot water – so even a two-person household might opt for a 50-75 gallon heater in that case. Conversely, if you’re very water-conscious and have low-flow fixtures, you might get by with a slightly smaller tank.

Another factor is recovery rate – that’s how quickly the heater can heat a full tank of water. Gas water heaters generally recover faster than electric ones, which is why a 40-gallon gas can serve a 2-3 person home similarly to a 50-gallon electric. There’s also the concept of First-Hour Rating (FHR) – how much hot water (in gallons) a heater can supply in an hour starting with a full tank. This depends on tank size and burner/element power. When sizing, plumbers consider both the tank capacity and the FHR to make sure peak usage can be met.

For those thinking of tankless water heaters (more on them shortly), sizing is a whole different ballgame – it’s about flow rate (gallons per minute) rather than storing gallons. But for tank units, the above gallon guidelines are a good starting point.

Pro tip: If your current water heater never seems to supply enough hot water, even before it started failing, you might be undersized. When upgrading, consider getting the next size up. On the other hand, if you always had plenty of hot water and maybe the tank was huge, you could save energy by downsizing if your usage is lower now (say, the kids moved out – you might not need that old 80-gallon unit anymore). A too-large water heater means you’re keeping more hot water heated than you really use, which can waste energy (though newer tanks are better insulated to reduce standby heat loss).

Additionally, measure the space where your current heater sits. Larger capacity tanks are physically taller and/or wider. Make sure you have room (height especially, and door clearance to get it in). If not, two smaller ones or a different solution might be needed. This is another area a plumber can advise on, ensuring the new unit fits and meets your household’s needs.

Now that you’ve considered the right size, you might also be deciding what type of new water heater to get. Many homeowners today are curious about tankless water heaters as an upgrade. Let’s explore the benefits of tankless units versus the standard tank models we’ve been talking about.

Benefits of Upgrading to a Tankless Water Heater

One of the biggest changes in the water heater world in recent years is the rise of tankless water heaters (also called on-demand water heaters). Unlike traditional tank heaters that keep a large volume of water hot 24/7, tankless units heat water only when you need it – as water flows through the unit. As a plumber, I’ve installed many of these, and I often recommend them to homeowners who want greater efficiency or never want to take a cold shower again. Here are some key benefits of tankless water heaters:

• Endless Hot Water: Perhaps the most popular benefit – tankless heaters provide virtually limitless hot water. Since they heat water on-demand as it flows, you aren’t limited by the size of a tank. This means you could take a 1-hour shower (if you wanted) and not run out of hot water, as long as the unit’s flow rate can keep up. In a busy household, this is a game-changer. No more scheduling showers or waiting for a tank to refill and reheat. Do note, however, that if you have a lot of simultaneous demand (multiple showers at once), you need a tankless unit(s) that can handle that flow – or you might still experience a drop in temperature. But for sequential use, it’s endless. I’ve had customers rave about being able to fill up a big garden tub without running out of hot water – something that was impossible with their old 50-gallon tank.
• Higher Energy Efficiency: Tankless water heaters are generally more energy-efficient than standard tanks, especially for smaller households or those who don’t use hot water constantly. With a tank, you have standby heat loss – the heater keeps firing to maintain the tank temperature even when you’re not using hot water. Tankless eliminates most of that waste. According to energy experts, tankless water heaters can be 24% to 34% more energy efficient for homes that use 41 gallons or less of hot water dail (Tankless Water Heaters: Efficiency and Space Savings | Reichelt Plumbing)】. Even in high-demand homes (around 80+ gallons a day), they’re still about 8-14% more efficient than a standard tan (Tankless Water Heaters: Efficiency and Space Savings | Reichelt Plumbing)】, because you’re not maintaining heat when water isn’t needed. Over time, those savings show up as lower utility bills. Modern tankless units also modulate their flame or heating element, so they use only as much energy as necessary to meet the hot water demand at any given moment. Many are ENERGY STAR® certified due to their efficiency. If you’re upgrading from an old, inefficient tank, the drop in your gas/electric bill can help offset the cost of the new tankless over its life.
• Lower Operating Costs: Hand-in-hand with efficiency comes lower ongoing cost. Your exact savings will depend on usage and local energy rates, but not paying to keep 50 gallons of water hot 24/7 can be significant. Plus, with a long lifespan (see below), the savings accrue over more years. Tankless units also typically have electronic ignition (no standing pilot light constantly burning gas), which saves a bit as well compared to older gas tanks that have pilot lights.
• Space Savings: A tankless water heater is much smaller and can be wall-mounted, freeing up space. Traditional tank heaters are big – roughly 5 feet tall and 2 feet wide (for a 50-gallon, as an example). A wall-hung tankless unit might be the size of a small suitcase. This is great if your water heater is in a tight closet or taking up half your shed. I’ve had clients regain storage space in a utility closet or eliminate an awkward tank that was in the way. In some cases, I can even install the tankless unit in a different location (because it vents differently or is indoor/outdoor rated, etc.) to optimize space. For smaller homes, condos, or simply to declutter a garage, tankless is a clear win in the space departmen (Tankless Water Heaters: Efficiency and Space Savings | Reichelt Plumbing)】.
• Longer Lifespan: Tankless water heaters typically last significantly longer than tank-style heaters. A standard tank might give you 10-15 years of service (with 12 being a common point of failure (Tankless Water Heaters: Efficiency and Space Savings | Reichelt Plumbing)】. In contrast, tankless units can often last 20+ years with proper maintenanc (Tankless Water Heaters: Efficiency and Space Savings | Reichelt Plumbing)】. They are built with durable components like stainless steel heat exchangers and since they don’t store water, they avoid the rust issues that plague tanks. Many manufacturers offer strong warranties – for example, some have 10-15 year warranties on the heat exchanger. This longevity can make the higher upfront cost of a tankless more palatable, as you might go twice as long before needing another replacement. Less frequent replacement also means fewer labor costs over time.
• Energy Efficiency Rebates or Credits: Installing a high-efficiency tankless (especially condensing gas units) can sometimes qualify you for rebates or tax credits. We’ll cover specifics for NC in the next section, but it’s worth noting here as a benefit: many tankless models are ENERGY STAR rated and may get you some money back from utility companies or Uncle Sam.
• No Risk of Tank Leaks: One of my favorite advantages to remind people of – with no tank, you drastically reduce the risk of a catastrophic leak. A tankless can still leak a little from certain components (heat exchanger failure or a fitting, perhaps), but you will never have 50+ gallons of water gush out at once because of a tank rupture. This gives a bit of peace of mind, especially if your old tank was in a location where a leak would do a lot of damage (inside a finished area of the home, for instance).
• Cleaner Hot Water: Water sitting in a tank can develop sediment, and if not used, can even become stagnant over time. With tankless, water is fresh-heated as it flows. There’s also no anode rod in most tankless (since there’s no tank to protect), so you don’t get that “rotten egg” smell that sometimes happens in tanks due to anode reactions with certain water chemistry (if you’ve ever had smelly hot water, you know it’s unpleasant). Overall, tankless provides clean, on-demand hot water without the tank “aftertaste” or mineral buildup (though minerals can still accumulate on the heat exchanger, so maintenance is still needed—more on that below).
• Precise Temperature Control and Safety: Tankless units often have digital controllers where you can set the exact output temperature. This can be a nice feature – for example, you can dial it to 120°F to prevent scalding, or even lower it when you’re away for a while (some units have remote control or even phone app connectivity). Some high-end tank water heaters have this now too, but traditionally you just had a dial. Tankless gives you precision. Many also have safety features like automatic shutdown if an issue is detected, and they won’t run if something is unsafe (whereas a failing tank might just sit and rust until it leaks).

It’s worth noting a couple of considerations with tankless systems: First, the upfront cost is higher (I’ll detail costs soon). Also, to realize their benefits, they must be properly sized for your household’s peak hot water demand. If you undersize a tankless, you won’t be happy (it might not be able to supply two showers simultaneously, for instance). When I install tankless units, I do a thorough assessment of how many GPM (gallons per minute) you’ll need at peak and what temperature rise is required based on our groundwater temperature. Southeastern North Carolina has fairly moderate incoming water temperatures (not as cold as up north), so tankless heaters work efficiently here, even in winter.

Another consideration: maintenance. Tankless heaters do require maintenance – primarily, regular descaling (flushing) of the heat exchanger to remove mineral deposits, especially in areas with harder water. This is typically done once a year or every two years. It’s not hard (pumping a vinegar solution through the unit), and many plumbing companies offer this service. It’s similar to flushing a tank, just a slightly different procedure. Neglecting it can shorten the life of a tankless or reduce efficiency.

Despite those considerations, many homeowners absolutely love their tankless heaters. The combination of energy savings, space savings, and endless hot water is hard to beat. In fact, if you have a large family that often did run out of hot water with a tank, the upgrade feels life-changing – no more cold shower surprises!

Tankless isn’t the only upgrade option, though. There are also high-efficiency tank models (like heat pump water heaters, also called hybrid water heaters) that can save energy – I mention these because there are incentives for them and they’re worth considering if you want efficiency but in a tank form. A heat pump water heater uses electricity to move heat into the water (like a reverse AC unit) and can be 2-3 times more efficient than a standard electric tank. They typically come in 50-80 gallon sizes. The downside is they need a certain ambient temperature (usually in a garage or conditioned space) and work a bit slower, but they save a lot on power.

However, heat pump units still have a tank (so space and finite supply), whereas tankless eliminates the tank entirely. Some homeowners even choose to go tankless plus a small buffer tank or recirculation system to get instant hot water at taps (since tankless can have a few seconds delay). There are many configurations – part of my job is to help you navigate these choices based on your priorities (cost, efficiency, capacity, etc.).

For this article, I’ll stick to focusing on standard tanks vs. tankless since those are the most common choices when upgrading a failing heater. Now that you know the benefits, let’s get down to brass tacks: what does it cost to upgrade your water heater?

Rough Cost Estimates for Different Water Heaters and Installation

Cost is a big factor in any home improvement decision. I’m often asked, “Justin, how much is it going to cost to replace my water heater?” The answer, of course, is it depends – on the type of heater, the size, whether it’s gas or electric, and the complexity of installation (e.g., any new wiring, venting, or other modifications needed). I’ll provide some rough cost ranges here to give you an idea. Keep in mind these are ballpark figures for purchase + professional installation; actual prices in Onslow/Pender/Carteret/New Hanover counties may vary, and you should get a personalized quote for accuracy.

• Standard Tank Water Heater (Electric or Gas): For a typical tank-style water heater (let’s say 40-50 gallon, which is common), you’re looking at roughly $600 to $3,000 total installed on averag (How Much Does Water Heater Installation Or Replacement Cost? (2025))】. That’s a wide range because it depends on size and efficiency. Basic 40-gallon electric units tend to be the cheapest – the unit might be $400-600, and installation labor $300-500, so maybe ~$1,000 give or take. Gas units of similar size might be a bit more, especially if new venting or gas line adjustments are needed – maybe $1,000-1,500 installed for a basic 40-gallon gas. At the higher end of the range, you have larger tanks (75-80 gallon) or high-efficiency or premium models which can cost more for the unit and involve more labor. For example, a 75-gallon power-vent gas water heater (one that uses a fan to push exhaust out sideways) could cost $2,500 or more with installation, because the unit itself is pricey and the venting material is special. On average, many homeowners pay around $1,000 to $1,800 for a straightforward replacement of a standard tank in the 50-gallon range. If the installation is simple (direct swap, existing hookups all good), it’ll be towards the lower end. If modifications are needed (adding an expansion tank, updating piping, bringing something up to code), that can add a few hundred. Electric and gas usually cost similar for the same size in terms of the unit price, but gas may have slightly higher install cost if vent or gas work is needed. According to one data source, natural gas water heater installations typically range from about $600 to $2,700, while electric water heaters run $600 to $3,50 (Tank vs. Tankless Water Heater Cost: 8 Factors to Consider When Choosing a Water Heater – Bob Vila)】. Those upper numbers likely include some extra work or high-end equipment. Most common jobs won’t hit the extreme high end unless there are complications.
• Tankless Water Heater (Gas or Electric): Tankless units are more expensive upfront. For a whole-house tankless (especially gas-fired which is most common for whole-home use), *costs can range from about $1,200 to $5,000 or more, installed (How Much Does Water Heater Installation Or Replacement Cost? (2025)) (How Much Does Water Heater Installation Or Replacement Cost? (2025))】. Let me break that down: A typical mid-range gas tankless unit might cost $1,000 to $1,500 just to purchase. Installation can be $1,000 or more, because it often involves running a new vent pipe (stainless steel or PVC for high-efficiency models), possibly upgrading the gas line size (tankless heaters need a lot of BTU when running, so the gas supply line may need to be larger), and adding things like condensate drains for high-efficiency units. If you’re switching from an electric tank to a gas tankless, then you’re adding gas piping which is a significant job (or vice versa: gas tank to electric tankless would require heavy gauge electrical wiring and possibly a new circuit breaker panel upgrade – also expensive). So the range is wide. On the low end, if all conditions are favorable and you go with a smaller electric tankless unit (point-of-use or a smaller whole-home unit in a small house), you might get it done around $1,200-1,500. On the higher end, a top-of-line gas tankless with a complex install (say installation in a new location, long vent run, etc.) could be $4,000-5,000. Most homeowners I work with end up spending about $2,000 to $3,500 for a quality tankless installation in our area, which aligns with national averages (one source notes many spend around $2,200 on averag (Tank vs. Tankless Water Heater Cost: 8 Factors to Consider When Choosing a Water Heater – Bob Vila)】). Remember, this often pays off in the long run with energy savings and longer life. If you need more than one tankless (some very large homes or those wanting “point-of-use” units for different bathrooms), costs will add up accordingly per unit.
• High-Efficiency Hybrid (Heat Pump) Water Heater: These are a type of tank water heater (usually electric) that uses a heat pump to heat the water, using much less electricity. The unit cost is higher than standard electric – often $1,200 to $2,500 for the unit – and installation might be similar to a standard heater aside from needing a condensate drain (like an A/C has). Installed, you might pay around $2,000 to $4,000. Why mention this? Because there are often rebates for heat pump water heaters (as we’ll discuss in the next section) that can offset the cost, making them attractive. If you have an electric water heater currently, upgrading to a heat pump style could cut your water heating energy use by 50% or more. For a homeowner in NC with high power bills, that’s worth considering. The downside: heat pump heaters need a certain ambient air temp (usually they’re in a garage or utility room that stays warm), and they recover slower (but many have hybrid modes to kick in standard electric resistance when needed). So they’re not for everyone, but cost-wise, after rebates, they can be similar to a regular heater.
• Solar or Indirect Water Heaters: These are less common, but for completeness: Solar thermal heaters (roof panels that heat water) or indirect systems (water heater attached to a boiler or heat exchanger) have very different cost structures. A solar water heater system can be $5,000-$10,000 (often partially subsidized by incentives). Indirect tanks depend on having a boiler. These are probably beyond our scope here since most folks in coastal NC use either electric or gas conventional or tankless systems.

When budgeting, also consider additional costs that might arise: – If your old unit is in a tight spot or up in an attic, labor might be higher due to difficulty. – If your local code now requires an expansion tank (a small tank to absorb pressure), that’s maybe an extra $50-$150 installed. – Disposal fee for the old heater – some companies include this, others charge a bit for hauling it away (they’re heavy, and metal recycling values aren’t high nowadays, so it’s a service). – Permit fees – in many places, replacing a water heater requires a permit and inspection. The cost might be nominal ($50-$150), but it’s part of the job (and for safety, it’s a good thing to have it inspected). – If switching fuel types (electric to gas or vice versa), the cost can jump significantly because you’re essentially adding a new utility line or a 240V circuit. That could be $500-$1,500 extra depending on distance and complexity. – If going tankless, factor in that you might also want a water softener or conditioning system if you have very hard water, to protect your investment (hard water can reduce a tankless lifespan due to scaling). Our water here in the NC coastal plain is not extremely hard generally (Wilmington’s water is relatively soft around 25 ppm, Onslow varies up to maybe 80 ppm which is moderately har (FAQs • What is the hardness of my water?)】), but it’s something to test and consider.

I always provide customers with a detailed quote so there are no surprises. It’s understandable to be concerned about cost – a water heater is a significant purchase, but keep in mind the benefits of a new unit: peace of mind, better performance, energy savings, and in many cases avoiding the costs that would come if the old one failed catastrophically (imagine the deductible on a homeowners insurance claim for water damage, or the cost of emergency plumber calls after-hours).

One more tip: keep an eye out for promotions or rebates. That leads into our next section nicely – let’s talk about what incentives might be available here in North Carolina to help offset the cost of an energy-efficient water heater upgrade.

North Carolina Energy-Efficiency Incentives and Rebates for Water Heater Upgrades

Upgrading to a new water heater, especially a high-efficiency model like a heat pump or tankless unit, can qualify you for various rebates, incentives, or tax credits. As a North Carolina homeowner (particularly in Onslow, Pender, Carteret, or New Hanover counties), you have a few avenues to explore for potential savings:

• Utility Company Rebates: Many utility companies encourage customers to save energy by offering rebates on efficient appliances. For example, if you’re a Duke Energy customer (Duke Energy Progress serves much of southeastern NC, including parts of New Hanover and Pender County), check out their Smart $aver program. They have offered rebates for heat pump water heaters in the past – typically around *$350 for upgrading to an ENERGY STAR® heat pump water heater (Duke Energy Efficiency Rebate Program – DSIRE)】. Some electric co-ops or city utilities may have similar programs. These usually require that you go through an approved contractor and install an eligible efficient model. It’s worth checking with your local power company. A $300-400 rebate can take a nice bite out of the higher upfront cost of a heat pump or tankless unit.
• State of North Carolina Energy Rebates: Thanks to recent federal funding (the Inflation Reduction Act of 2022), North Carolina launched the Energy Saver NC rebate program in 2024-202 (Energy Efficiency Rebates | NC DEQ)】. This program, administered by the NC Department of Environmental Quality, provides rebates for various home efficiency upgrades. Of particular interest: they offer *up to $1,750 for an ENERGY STAR certified electric heat pump water heater (Energy Efficiency Rebates | NC DEQ)】. That’s a hefty incentive, essentially making a heat pump water heater’s cost comparable to a standard one. Now, these rebates often have income eligibility requirements (they are especially generous for low-to-moderate income households (Energy Efficiency Rebates | NC DEQ)】. For example, if your household income is below a certain threshold, you might qualify for the maximum rebate. Even if you’re above, there might still be something like 50% of cost up to a certain amount. The program might also require that the new unit replaces an old less-efficient unit. It’s worth looking into – as of early 2025, these programs are gearing up and people are starting to apply. North Carolina is keen on helping residents lower energy bills, and heating water is often one of the biggest energy uses in a home. So essentially, the state (with federal funds) might help pay a chunk of your upgrade if you choose a qualifying efficient water heater.
• Federal Tax Credits: On top of state and utility programs, don’t forget Uncle Sam. There are federal tax credits available for energy-efficient home improvements, including water heaters. Under current law (as of 2023 through 2032, thanks to the Inflation Reduction Act updates), you can get a *30% tax credit on the cost of a heat pump water heater, up to $2,000 (Water Heaters (Natural Gas) Tax Credit | ENERGY STAR)】. This is a direct reduction in your taxes (or added to your refund) when you file – effectively cash back in your pocket. This credit applies to electric heat pump water heaters (and also to heat pump HVAC systems, etc., but for water heaters specifically the cap is $2,000 per year). For other water heaters, like a high-efficiency gas tankless, there’s a smaller credit – up to $600 for a water heater that’s not a heat pump (this falls under a $1,200 annual cap for “other energy improvements” (Water Heaters (Natural Gas) Tax Credit | ENERGY STAR)】. Many ENERGY STAR gas tankless units would qualify for that $600 credit. The nice thing is you can stack these: for instance, you could get a state rebate on a heat pump water heater and also claim the federal tax credit for the remaining amount you paid. Just keep receipts and Manufacturer Certification Statements for your taxes. Always consult a tax professional for specifics, but this is a well-advertised part of the federal incentives for going green.
• Local Programs or Time-of-Use Incentives: Occasionally, local initiatives pop up. Sometimes counties or cities have grants for efficiency (less common for water heaters specifically, more common for things like solar or weatherization). Also, if you’re on a time-of-use electricity rate plan, some utilities might give you a break or credit if you install a device that shifts water heating to off-peak hours (some heat pump water heaters have smart controls for that). These are more case-by-case, but worth asking about.
• Manufacturer Promotions: Not a rebate per se, but sometimes water heater manufacturers run promotions (especially at the end of the year or during Earth Day promotions) where they might give a discount on equipment. If you’re working with a contractor like us, we stay in the loop on any vendor deals and try to pass savings on to you when available.

One more thing to mention: financing options. Even with rebates, a water heater can be an unplanned expense. Many plumbing companies (Wild Water Plumbing included) offer financing or payment plans for equipment installs. And some utility programs (like Duke Energy) have on-bill financing where you can pay for the equipment over time on your electric bill, using the energy savings to offset the cost. It’s worth exploring these if a sudden replacement is a financial strain.

In summary, North Carolinians have some great opportunities to save when upgrading an old water heater. Efficient models may cost more upfront, but rebates and credits can significantly cut that cost down. For example, if you install a heat pump water heater that costs $2,500, you might get $350 from Duke, $1,750 from the state (if eligible), and 30% tax credit on any remainder – potentially bringing your out-of-pocket under $500 in the best case. That’s like getting a top-of-line efficient heater for the price of a basic one. Even if you don’t meet the criteria for the full state rebate, the federal credit and a smaller utility rebate still make it attractive.

Tankless gas units might get a $600 tax credit, which is still nothing to sneeze at – that could cover a good chunk of the installation labor.

I always advise: check DSIREusa.org (Database of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency) and with your utility provider’s website for the latest rebates before purchasing. And your plumber should also know – I keep up to date on these programs so I can help my customers take advantage of free money on the table.

Alright, we’ve covered a lot of ground: from identifying a dying water heater, to why it fails, to the importance of professional help, to choosing the right size, to the benefits of new technologies, to the costs and incentives. That was a journey! Let’s bring it all together and talk about next steps if you’re facing water heater issues.

Time for an Upgrade? Call Wild Water Plumbing for Expert Help (Conclusion)

If you’ve read this far, you probably suspect your water heater is in trouble – or you’re proactively learning (kudos to you!). The warning signs of a failing water heater – no hot water, leaks, odd noises, rusty water, inconsistent temperatures, etc. – should never be ignored. These are your water heater’s way of saying “Help me!” before a bigger disaster occurs. By recognizing these signs early, you can avoid sudden cold showers and prevent costly water damage.

We’ve also seen that upgrading to a new unit comes with significant benefits. Whether you opt for a modern high-efficiency tank or make the leap to a tankless water heater, you’ll enjoy more reliable hot water, lower energy bills, and peace of mind. New units today are better insulated and more efficient than ones from 15 years ago – so even a standard new tank will likely save some energy over an old clunker. And if you choose a tankless or heat pump unit, the efficiency gains can be substantia (Tankless Water Heaters: Efficiency and Space Savings | Reichelt Plumbing)】. Plus, you won’t have to worry about your old heater springing a leak at the worst time.

I want to emphasize the importance of professional installation and service one more time: water heaters involve plumbing, electricity, and sometimes gas – a tricky trio. As a licensed plumber who has installed countless water heaters in Wilmington, Jacksonville, Surf City, Morehead City – all over our coastal NC region – I can ensure the job is done safely, up to code, and efficiently. My team will also haul away your old unit and make sure all those little details (like new copper fittings, vent pipe, drain pan, etc.) are handled. We take pride in doing it right, so you won’t have to worry.

If you’re in Onslow, Pender, Carteret, or New Hanover County and you’re experiencing any water heater issues – or you just have questions about upgrading – I invite you to reach out to Wild Water Plumbing. Don’t wait until you’re ankle-deep in rusty water or stuck with cold showers. We can perform a thorough water heater inspection to assess its condition. Sometimes a simple repair or flush is all that’s needed to buy you a couple more years. Other times, it’s clear that a replacement is the safest and most cost-effective route.

When it comes to replacements, we’ll help you choose the perfect unit for your home and budget. We’ll consider your household size (so you get the right tank size or tankless capacity), your energy preferences, and the layout of your home. We’ll also inform you of any rebates or incentives you can take advantage of – we’ll even help with the paperwork if needed, because who doesn’t like free money for upgrading?

Contact Wild Water Plumbing Today

🚰 Ready for reliable hot water? Don’t take chances with a failing water heater. Contact Wild Water Plumbing for expert water heater service. Whether you need an inspection, urgent repair, or a full replacement and upgrade, our experienced team has got you covered. We serve homeowners all across Onslow, Pender, Carteret, and New Hanover counties – from Jacksonville to Wilmington and everywhere in between.

👉 Get in touch today to schedule a water heater inspection or consultation. We’ll gladly discuss your options, provide a free estimate, and answer any questions you have about water heaters or plumbing in general. You can send a message and schedule an appointment.

Don’t let a sneaky leak or lukewarm shower catch you off guard. With the right knowledge (now you have it!) and the right plumbing partner, you can ensure your home stays safe and comfortable with plenty of hot water. As Justin Wilder at Wild Water Plumbing, I’m here to help make that happen.

Take action now – your future self (enjoying a steamy, uninterrupted hot shower) will thank you!

— Justin Wilder, Owner/Plumber, Wild Water Plumbing

(P.S. If you found this guide helpful and you’re not currently in need of service, feel free to bookmark it or share it with a neighbor. You never know who might be listening to their water heater rumbling like a thunderstorm and could use a friendly plumber’s advice! Stay safe and stay warm out there.)